A trip to the popular Milford or Doubtful Sound usually ranks high on the bucket list of most backpackers travelling around the Land of the Long White Cloud. But with dozens of companies operating year round commercial cruises in two differing “Sounds”, it’s difficult to know which to visit, at what time of the year and how best to experience one of New Zealand’s most acclaimed natural attractions.

So, as we’ve somehow wound up having Fiordland National Park as our back garden, we’ve been lucky enough to try out most cruise and kayak trips available in this beautiful part of the world and decided to put together some tips to help you get the most out of your time here.

So, which Sound??

Two of the most common questions we’ve been asked since working in Te Anau have been: ‘What’s the difference between Milford and Doubtful Sound?’ and ‘ Which one is better?’

And the truth is… there’s no easy answer.

Labelled Sounds by early explorers, Milford and Doubtful are both in fact Fjords (or Fiords) and are just two out of a total of 14 fjords that indent the 215km of Fiordland World Heritage Coastline. Carved out by the crushing power of ancient glaciers, both offer scenes of undeniable beauty. Towering peaks soar vertically from the dark waters below. Thunderous waterfalls cascade over rocky outcrops. Forests of ferns and Beech trees cling precariously to sheer rock faces. And rarely seen sea life can be spotted taking haven from the turbulent Tasman sea.

So in terms of the perceived environment you will be immersing yourself in, there is little difference. The most noticeable differences between Milford and Doubtful Sound instead lie in their size, price tag and the feeling of wilderness and isolation that they project.

Milford Sound is arguably one of New Zealand’s biggest tourist destinations and it’s easy to see why. This narrow fjord will leave you feeling insignificant beneath its soaring summits and in awe of the majestic Mitre Peak.

And arguably as beautiful as Milford itself is the journey to get there. Milford can be reached via state Highway 94, just a 2 hour drive from Te Anau- making this easily the most accessible Fjord in Fiordland National Park. This historic road skirts Lake Te Anau, New Zealand’s 2^nd largest lake, before following the Eglinton River through dramatic valley flats. From here the road winds and climbs to a staggering 945meters through the Darran Mountains before climaxing at the infamous Homer Tunnel. This feat of human engineering and ingenuity carves its way 1.2 km through a wall of otherwise impassable rock, opening up a hair raising decent into the beautiful Milford Sound.

Along the way you’ll pass pristine mirror lakes; raging waterfalls; glacial rivers; sublime mountain scenery; deep rock chasms and endless vantage points offering views of the surrounding forested valleys. If you’re a keen tramper, this road also gives you access to (in our opinion) some of the best short and multi day walks that the South Island has to offer!

Top Tip: Opt for an early morning cruise. Make ‘Mirror lake’ your only stop en-route to Milford and then after your cruise, spend the rest of your day exploring this beautiful road and all it has to offer on your way back to Te Anau. This itinerary does mean a fairly early start, but dragging yourself out of bed that little bit earlier will help you get the most out of your trip to Milford, and with generally lower winds and calmer weather patterns early morning, you’re more likely to get those picture perfect views.

Doubtful Sound is a fjord of epic proportions. Stretching its crooked arms outward from the dense forests of Fiordland to the turbulent waters of the Tasman Sea, Doubtful Sound is around three times the length and ten times the area of Milford Sound.

Cut off from public road access, the only way to reach the shores of Deep Cove and embark on a cruise or kayak adventure in Doubtful, is to first take a 60 minute boat ride across the beautiful Lake Manapouri before boarding a coach and travelling up and over Wilmot Pass. This mountain pass is notorious for the challenges mother nature can throw at it- but the long journey is well worth the time and effort.

Doubtful offers a remote wilderness experience a world away from the busy tourist terminals and endless passing of vessels on the water ways of Milford Sound. Jurassic in appearance and ambience, it truly is a slice of serenity in an otherwise busy world.

So with all of this in mind, which Sound should you choose? Well, if money is no object then an overnighter in Doubtful, along with a day trip in Milford and a scenic over-flight of the National Park will give you the ultimate Fiordland experience. But if, like most backpackers, you’re conscious of that ever dwindling bank balance, then your more than likely going to be investing your hard earned cash into just one of these trips.

If you’re keen to experience Fiordland at its rawest then an overnight escape in Doubtful Sound is the way to go. Cruising the empty waters, kayaking the still arms, watching the sun go down over the mountains and awaking amongst the early morning mist will leave you overcome with feelings of solitude and a calmness that you can’t quite describe.

Or if you’re on a budget, limited in time, or want to combine a cruise with stretching your legs on the side treks and trails of the magnificent Milford road, then a trip to Milford Sound is the one for you.

But no matter what destination you choose, you’re not likely to leave disappointed!

Which Cruise?

The bar is set high in terms of comfort, customer service and passenger safety amongst all of the companies operating out of both Doubtful and Milford Sound. So in all honesty you can’t go wrong with any of the boats out on the waters.

If you’re after a small boat with generally less people, then Cruise Milford or Mitre Peak cruises are the boats for you.

If it’s a cheap and cheerful cruise your after, then check out Jucy Cruise or Go Orange. With Jucy you might spend a little less time on the water than some of the other boats, but they are a great way to see the fjords without breaking the bank balance!

For those looking for a more luxurious cruise, Real Journeys and Southern Discoveries operate the biggest and most expensive boats out on the water, as well as longer cruises with the added bonus of an on-board nature guide.

For overnight options in both Milford and Doubtful, Real Journeys offer excellent value for money in terms of the service and overall experience. Or if it’s a real special occasion and you’re looking for a more indulgent and exclusive experience, a handful of small charter boats operate overnight trips where you’ll have the opportunity to fish for your own supper and feast on platters of fresh Cray fish.

For those of you in search of a little bit more adventure, you have the option to take to the water on a  Multi day camping and kayaking trip in Doubtful with Go Orange, or kayaking day trips in Milford with either Roscos, Go Orange or Southern Discoveries.

Rain or Shine

In a small cobbled Cumbrian village in England there stands a plaque which reads “In loving memory of a Sunny Day in Borrowdale”. As I passed it bleary-eyed from the onslaught of rain that pummelled us while walking the infamous Cumbrian Way back in 2015, I thought that no truer words had been written. But after living and playing in and around fjords of New Zealand for the past year, it’s safe to say that this witty little sign would be much more suited to this part of Aeotorea.

The fjords of both Milford and Doubtful lie deep within impenetrable forests of Fiordland National Park. But what most people who visit the area don’t realise when they are planning their once in a lifetime trip, is that the forests of Fiordland National Park are in fact rain forests. Which means, in simple terms, that they get a hella load of rain. But for those of you who enjoy more factual explanations, this translates to Fiordland receiving, on average, an impressive 7 meters of rain per year- making it one of the wettest places on the planet. Wetter in fact than the amazon rainforest!

So if your dreaming of sailing with the wind blowing in your hair, the sun kissing your skin and the grand Mitre Peak standing to attention with a back drop of blue skies and fluffy clouds, then considering this place delivers around 200 rainy days per year, you might find your trip to Fiordland bitterly disappointing!

But it’s not all doom and gloom. Those picture perfect scenes do exist so you might just be lucky enough to get one. But if not, you can rest assured in the fact that a rainy day in Fiordland can be just as awe-inspiring, if not more so, than one of those sought after blue skies days. On a rainy day, low lying cloud can create an air of drama and mystery as monstrous peaks become engulfed, phasing out one by one into a white horizon. And the scars of slips and tree avalanches which streak the mountainsides transform into a torrent of gushing waterfalls.

So no matter what time of year you go, or what Mother Nature decides to throw at you, as long as you are willing to embrace it, rain or shine, Fiordland will not fail to astonish you.

Top tip:  Prepare for the worst and if its better than that then happy days- you’ve lucked out in Fordland! And if it does rain…. its not the end of the actual world people!! You wont melt standing out on deck in a downpour and no, you mightn’t have the experience you’d dreamed of- but you will have experienced the very reason Fiordland is so incredibly beautiful and diverse! And finally, No… the locals don’t know if it will be raining on Tuesday 26th March 2022 for your trip. So don’t ask 😛

The busiest time to visit the Sounds

Milford and Doubtful are year round destinations, but the summer season in and around Fiordland is a particularly busy one! From December through to May the Sounds become a hive of activity, buzzing with tourists posing and pouting for selfies. Chinese New Year has become particularly popular amongst Asian tourists within recent years causing cruises to be booked up well in advance. This holiday usually falls on the new moon between 21^st January and 20^th February. So if your planning to be in or around Fiordland during this time, be prepared for serious crowds and be sure to book your tours and accommodation in good time or you may find yourself having a very disappointing experience of Fiordland.

The Best time for wildlife: Both Doubtful and Milford Sound provide visitors with the opportunity to catch a glimpse of some pretty incredible wildlife in their natural habitat. If wildlife spotting is hot on your agenda then be sure to make time to explore the Milford Road and book one of the longer cruises on the fjord.

Native Birds- New Zealand is the land of the birds and this is no truer than in the 12,500 km² area that makes up Fordland National Park.

Visitors to the area are likely to see common forest birds such as tomtits, brown creepers, grey warblers, fantails, tui, bellbirds, wood pigeons and hawks. But the forests of Fiordland are also home to some of New Zealand’s rarest and endangered flightless birds such as Kiwi, Takahe and Kakapos. But probably the most famed bird of Fiordland is the Kea. Kea are a protected species and the worlds only Alpine Parrot. As well as being rare and impressively beautiful birds, they are also scarily intelligent.. and very cheeky! Watch out for your belongings and your rental car around these ones 😉

 

Penguins- Visiting the fjords between July and November will give you the best chances of viewing Fiordland’s Crested Penguins as they waddle amongst the rocky shorelines  during their breeding season. These timid little birds are only found in Fordland and may also occasionally be seen during the moulting season from mid- January to early March.

Fordland is also home to the worlds smallest penguin. Standing at just 25cm fully grown the ‘Little Blue Penguin’ can be spotted along the coastline from May through to December when their chicks fledge the nest.

Seals- Despite being hunted almost to extinction in the early 1800’s for their fur, the Fjords are now home to colonies of the Southern fur seals, also known as the Antarctic fur seals. These whiskered little creatures can be seen basking in the sunlight on the rocky shores of the fjord year round.

 

 

 

 

Dolphins-Both Milford and Doubtful Sound have pods of resident Dusky and Bottle Nosed Dolphins which although prove a little more elusive than their fury seal friends, they do sometimes make an appearance wowing tourists as they playfully ride the bow waves of passing ships.

 

 

 

Whales- Unfortunately, during our many trips to Milford and Doubtful we’ve never been lucky enough to catch a glimpse of a whale. But apparently, on a rare occasion, Humpback and Southern Right Whales can be spotted cruising close to the shores of the fjords.

Flora- Owing largely to its unique ecosystem and plentiful rain, Fiordland boasts over 700 species of plant life that can not be found any where else in the world. As with most areas of wilderness, spring blossom can be particularly beautiful in Fiordland. For a short time during this season, Lupins line the banks of the Eglinton River injecting a burst of colour into the valley flats. And the ornamental Mount Cook Lilly, can be found flourishing high up on Alpine mountainsides.

The Fjords are also hosts the worlds biggest population of black coral (which incidentally is actually white). Approximately seven million colonies, some over 200 years old live deep within the sound at depths of over 500meters. For a rare glimpse into this unique marine environment, visit the Milford Discovery Centre & Underwater Observatory where they have created living coral gardens which showcase some of these rarities.

Visiting during the off peak season

New Zealand’s winter season kicks off on May 1^st and runs through until October 1st. During this time accommodation prices generally drop, some cruises offer discounted tours and New Zealand’s mountainous regions (usually) become awash in a blanket of glistening snow. Making it, in our opinion, one of the most picturesque times of the year to visit the fjords. But the beauty that this time of year offers doesn’t come without risk. Snow, ice, avalanches, land slides and tree falls can cause roads in and around Fiordland to become traitorous and impassable. The Milford Road can be closed and the tours cancelled for days or even weeks at a time so be sure to give yourself some flexibility to hang around and wait if a trip to the Sounds are in your plans during Winter.

Top tip: If you’re not used to driving in snow and ice conditions and aren’t carrying snow chains-then pay out a little extra money, hop on an organised tour from Te Anau and leave the roads to the pro’s. It could save your life.

  Saving Dolla

New Zealand’s fjords are a must do, but if that backpacker budget is limited, then putting in a little research time could save you some serious bucks and help you get the most out of your time in Fiordland.

To get the sweetest deals out there, avoid booking through i-sites and other Booking Agents like Happy Travels and Peterpans. These guys may offer a super enthusiastic smile and a convenient service, but they sure won’t offer any of the cheapest rates on the market.. or tell you where to find them!

Now, if you haven’t yet heard of ‘Grabone’ then you need to get all over this baby! Grabone.co.nz offers hundreds of random daily deals on activities, trips and tours right across New Zealand and if you’re lucky enough, it could have you sailing Milford for as little as $20!!

But before booking, check with your local YHA on the deals and promotions they offer. A valid YHA membership card will have your saving up to 20% on selected trips and tours if booked over the counter with them.

Where to stay

Te Anau is known as the gateway to the Sounds. Offering the convenience and vibrancy of a small town at a little over 2 hours from either fjord, it’s the perfect place to stop and stay on your way to your chosen destination.

When it comes to accommodation options, Te Anau has its fair share. From Holiday Parks, hostels, motels, bed & breakfasts to luxury spa’s and hotels-there’s something for everyone’s budget. But between the months of December to March finding affordable accommodation… or accommodation at all, can become a major issue!! So, if you plan to visit Fordland during this time, arrange your accommodation well in advance and find a bed for your weary head!

YHA Te Anau is our top pick for backpacker accommodation. Perhaps I’m a little bias because they pay my wage, but the high standards of cleanliness, comfort and customer service at this hostel has it ranked alongside luxury lodges and hotels as one of the top 5 accommodation providers in Te Anau. And lets be honest reviews don’t lie.

If you’re looking to base yourself a little closer to the fjords, then Manapouri will get you 20 minutes closer to Doubtful sound but be aware that services and activities are pretty limited in this tiny town. Or if its Milford your heading to and you don’t mind sharing your accommodation with those pesky sand-flies, then Milford Lodge offers a range of private and backpacker style accommodation a stones throw from the wharf.

Be aware-Freedom camping is not allowed on the Milford Road and this is something that the local wardens are keen to stamp out. During the summer, volunteer workers patrol the road late at night handing out hefty fines to disobeying backpackers and holiday makers. But, if you are looking to save a bit of dolla- there are lots of super cheap unpowered campsites to chose from en-route. Check the DOC website for up to date prices and availability.

#TopTips

• Be prepared for four seasons in one day… even in Summer. Take sunscreen, hats, wear layers and clothes you’re happy to get soaking wet in and spares to keep yourself dry and warm on the long journey back to civilisation.
• Make sure your batteries are full, your SD cards have space and you pack that camera. Milford and Doubtful Sounds are a photographer’s wet dream 😉
•  Don’t leave home without your insect repellant. Sand-flies are notorious in the Forests of Fiordland. Whilst you’re cruising they won’t be able to keep up with you, but if you’re planning on hanging around the wharf, watching sunset or hitting the water in a kayak, these pesky pests will leave you screaming with annoyance and scratching for weeks to come.
• Fill up your tank and stock up on snacks before you set off. You won’t find a petrol station or food store after Te Anau, so don’t let your Milford trip end in mechanical misery and make sure you have enough car and body fuel for the 237km return trip!!