Hailed as one of the most spectacular long distance walks in the world, The Annapurna circuit had a lot to live up to. But, our 130 odd mile horseshoe trek through Nepal’s central Himalaya region more than exceeded any of our expectations.

This popular trail may lack the lavish huts and sense of isolated wilderness offered by other treks around the world, it may not even have the best scenery; but what it does offer is the opportunity to explore an ever changing landscape, stand in the shadows of four of the world’s highest snow-capped peaks, and to experience the kindness and cultures of the communities who, despite adversity, inhabit these unforgiving lands.

The first 5 days of our 18 day journey from Besisahar to Nayapul were spent trekking towards the source of the mountain river Marshyangdi. We crossed wooden swing bridges which swayed precariously over the sapphire rapids below; walked beneath cascading waterfalls; meandered through rice paddies carved into the climbing countryside; scaled sweet smelling rhododendron forests; and were left astonished by the ingenuity of the farming villages we called home each night. And too be honest, it all felt a little too easy. It was nothing like the white washed Himalayas which I had seen on TV and the views although beautiful, could easily have been rivalled by some of our favourite spots in England’s Lake District.

 

But on day six as we left the village of Chame at an altitude of 2630m and began to ascend further towards the climax of our journey, the infamous Thorong-la Pass, the terrain began to drastically change. Spindrift and threatening clouds now loomed above a skyline dominated by grey and white soaring walls of intimidating rock. Vultures circled overhead, preying on the frozen remains of Yaks which had been taken by the harsh alpine conditions. Boulders crashed and tumbled down the fell-side around us, whilst the thunderous noise of distant avalanches echoed in our ears. It was a stark contrast from the blue skies and lush green vegetation of the valleys and foot hills below. And with every step we took, we became all too aware of each shortening intake of breath in the thinning ar. It was as if the mountains had sent a glaring reminder of the hostile environment which we had chosen to explore, and of how dispensable and insignificant we are. We were at the full mercy of the greatest mountain range on the planet, and it had decided to send a blizzard our way.

Likened to that which killed over 40 trekkers in October 2014, the snow fall caused what seemed to be a panic amongst Sherpa’s in Menang village, with many groups, guides and porters abandoning their treks and heading downhill to the safety of the valleys below. But determined to make the pass, others like ourselves decided to wait out the storm in the sub- zero temperatures of the wafer-thin walled tea houses in hope of a break in the weather, and after just two days we were blessed with just that.

The track now covered in thick snow, compacted by an endless stream of trekkers had become treacherous under foot. For those struggling with altitude sickness like Danielle, each movement became a slow and painful slog to the fluttering prayer flags of Thorong- La Pass.

To avoid high winds and melting snow, the final ascent was made in the dead of the night. Guided by only the flickering light of our head torches, we pushed on uphill through a landscape now undistinguishable and eerily quiet.

 

But as dawn broke, the darkness faded to reveal a 360 degree view of soaring Himalayan peaks. Stood at 5416m on a blanket of glistening snow, we were rendered speechless. Nothing compared to the scale and beauty of this picture perfect scene. Not skydiving over Franz Josef glacier; not an aerial view of the Great Barrier Reef; not swimming with Whale Sharks. Nothing could ever compare to this. It was nature at it most beautiful and it was truly breath taking.

 

The decent from Throng La was a long and arduous five hours of slipping and sliding down hill, but for us the adventure was far from over. Continuing on from Muktinath where the majority of trekkers end their Annapurna experience, the trail led us through Nepal’s arid semi desert land where we searched the river banks for ancient fossils; plentiful apple orchids where we feasted on pie; and sweat inducing sub-tropical rain forests where we heard the calls of the Cuckoo bird, before eventually leading us to our penultimate destination of Poon Hill.

  

 

Here, after a 4am climb, we stood sharing a cup of steaming hot lemon, ginger and Honey tea as we watched the rising sun’s rays one by one touch the snow-capped peaks of the entire Annapurna range, creating a fiery orange Alpine glow across the horizon.

A majestic ending to a perfect Himalayan adventure.