Ten Scenic Day hikes in New Zealand’s South Island that you shouldn’t miss

November 20, 2016November 29, 2016 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / Leave a comment

New Zealand is famed for its picturesque landscapes, soaring mountains, untouched wilderness and of cause it’s ‘Great Walks’. But if your don’t have the time, money, gear, or simply the will to trek day after day with a heavy pack on your back… why not instead get your boots out and stretch those legs of yours on one of New Zealand’s beautiful days walks? It would pretty much be a crime not to! So, in no particular order, here’s our top pick for the South Island….

1. Isthmus Peak (Wanaka)

Best For: Lake Vistas and all-round awesomeness

When it comes to day hikes in and around the Wanaka area, everyone seems to be all about Roys Peak. But for us, the lesser known Isthmus Peak is where it’s at. The trail, which begins near the head of Lake Hawea, just a short drive from the township of Wanaka, offers expansive views across Lake Hawea, Lake Wanaka and the Southern Alps. That’s double the punch of Mountains and Lake Vistas.

Incredibly, Isthamus Peak hasn’t hit the ‘backpacker’ radar yet in the same way that other peaks have- and that’s one of the things that we love so much about this trail.

Lake Hawea

Lake Wanaka

2. Ben Lomond Track (Queenstown)

Best For: An Ariel view of the Adventure Capital

Looming above the metropolis of Queenstown is Ben Lomond. A lofty peak with a well maintained and marked trail which offers a unique view of the adventure capital of the world. The trail begins with a steep uphill grunt through sweet smelling Pine forrest, before it opens out and continues to ascend through alpine tussuck and shrubs, to Ben Lomond Saddle at 1326 meters. The Saddle is a great vantage point of the sourrounding valleys, peaks and lakes. But for really spectacular panoramic views that will leave you lost for words, continue up a rough, steep and slightly more exposed trail to the mountain summit at 1748 meters. From here, your valiant uphill effort will be rewarded with some of the most stunning 360 degree scenery that any of New Zealand’s day walks have to offer. To the North, vast valleys and canyons cut through the landscape. To the South East is the infamous and striking, Remarkables Mountain Range. To the West the beautiful Moke Lake. And to the South across the vast blue waters of Lake Wakitupu, Walter and Cecil Peaks.It doesn’t get much better than this.

3. Gertrude Saddle (Fiordland)

Best For: Vast valleys and Sea to Summit views

Starting from an unnamed carpark on the eastern side of the Homer Tunnel is Gertrude Valley. This U shaped valley is an incredible example of Glacial carving and offers one of the most interesting and more challenging day walks in Fiordland National Park… if not the whole of the South Island.

The trail to the valley head will take you across bolder strewn river beds, through a small section of native forest and across alpine meadows, before reaching the dramatic vertical walls at the head of the valley. Here, the marked trail abruptly ends and is replaced by a rough, unmarked trail dotted with cairns. Climbing steeply, the faint trail cuts up to the left of the valley, traversing gushing waterfalls, crystal clear rock pools and the dark waters of the aptly named ‘Black Lake’. As the terrain steepens to a near vertical scramble, a number of fixed metal ropes provide a welcomed relief for those with less of a head for heights and only add to the adventure of this trail. The Saddle itself affords views down a densely forested valley, all the way to magnificent Milford Sound and Tasman Sea. An epic view for those lucky enough to land a day in Fiordand which isn’t shrouded in low lying cloud!

*Gertrude Saddle has challenging terrain and can become treacherous in bad weather conditions. It should only by attempted by those with suitable backcountry skills and experience.

4. Mt Campbell (Mavora Lakes)
Best For: Exposed ridge lines and escaping the crowds on off-trail adventures

If solitude and adventure is what you’re after, and you have the back country skills to match your enthusiasm, then Mt Campbell is a great option for an ‘off trail’ day walk. The summit, which sits at 1683 meters, provides spectacular views of the Livingstone Range and magical Mavora Lakes. In fact the landscape around Mavora is so strikingly beautiful that it was used as a number of filming locations for Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings series.

Expect a challenge with this one. You’ll find yourself bushbashing through dense forrest, being sliced and shredded by vicious tussock grassland, and then precariously scrambling your way across narrow ridgelines. For me, this is what being in the Mountains is all about.

5. Roy’s Peak Track (Wanaka)

Best For: Stunning Sunrise’s

If you’ve been around New Zealand for a while, then there’s a good chance that your Insta feed will have been clogged up with images of backpackers posing for selfies and jumping into the air starfish style on the popolur Roy’s Peak track. And its pretty easy to see why. The ridgeline that leads down from Roy’s peak to the vast waters of Lake Wanaka and its many picturesque islands, makes for an incredibly photogenic image that will keep you wanting to go back for more.

But for us, the down side to the beauty, relative ease and accessibility of this peak, is the big numbers of hikers it attracts. So to beat the crowds and enjoy the solitude that every mountain experience should entail, start your trek under the star studded cloak of the nights sky to reach the ridgeline just before sunrise. Find a rock, park your ass, layer up and watch as the sky, peaks and lakes are touched by a kaleidoscope of colours as the fiery sun rises on the distant horizon. What a way to start a new day (and for me..my 30th Birthday!) Incredible.

6. Mt John via Lakeshore (Tekapo)

Best For: Being awestruck by Azure waters

Mt John looks like more of a hill than a mountain and certainly would be classed as one in Hymalayan terms. But standing at just 1031 meters, this rounded peak offers a pleasant 3 hour circular walk, with vast views of the azure glacial waters of Lake Teapo, the hidden waters of Lake Alexandrina and the distant snow capped peaks of the Southern Alps. Perfect for a quick stretch of the legs before hitting the road.

7. Rocky Mountain (Wanaka)

Best For: Epic Views:Effort Ratio

Climbing this peak isn’t likely to leave the seasoned hiker with a feeling of accomplishment or even exertion. But for sheer epic views-to-effort ratio, for us, this trail wins hands down.

Beginning from a car park on Aspiring Road just past Glhendu Bay (Wanaka), the trail passes Diamond Lake before gradually climbing to the Summit which boasts beautiful views down to Roys Peninsula and an entirely different perspective of the stunning Lake Wanaka. Normally I’m all about the circular walks, but if you want to get the best views this trail has to offer, plus a little exposure, we recommend taking the East Track on both legs of the journey for this one. Enjoy.

8. Mt. Alfred (Glenorchy)

Best For: Gazing out over graded rivers

At the northern end of lake Wakitupu, between two vast valleys stands a lone mountain- Mount Alfred. Offering incredible views across two graded rivers (Rees & Dart) and grandure of Aspiring National Park and the majestic Mt. Earnslaw, this took place as one of our firm favourites. Unfortunatley, access beyong the bushline to the ridge and sumit has been restricted recently, but we just couldnt exclude this one from our list!

9. Lake Marian (Lower Hollyford, near Milford)

Best for: Hanging Valleys and Majestic Lakes

This track begins with a gentle ten minute stroll along a boardwalk next to the gushing white waters of Marian Falls. The track then becomes gradually harder and evolves into more of a rough trail with some small sections of easy scrambling- making for a more interesting ascent than your typical DOC trail. After a 1.5 – 2 hours push, you’ll find yourself at the foot of the captivating Lake Marian- an Alpine lake sat in a hanging valley, sourrounded by the Darran mountains- a spot that suprisingly often you can have all to yourselves.

10. Sealy Tarns Track (Aoraki/ Mount Cook NP)

Best For: Grand Peaks, ice bergs and sprawling glaciers

Home to sprawling glaciers, permanent snow fields and 23 peaks over 3000 meteres, you might think that Mount Cook National Park would be off limits to all but the most accomplished of mountaineers. But luckily, the creation of a number of trails in and around the Tasman and Hooker Valleys offer mere mortals, like me, a glimpse into a majestic and otherwise inhospitable landscape that is Aoraki. After much deliberation, we’ve decided that our favourite of all the trails, is the Sealy Tarns track. A 1-2.5 hour vertical slog up a never ending stream of steep steps will see you at a picturesque Tarn, overlooking arguabley some of the most stunning Mountain Scenary New Zealand has to offer. Continuing onwards and upwards for another 1-2 hours, you’ll reach the perfectly located Mueller Hut- a great option if your looking for an epic overnight Alpine experience.

DON’T BE THAT GUY

As most people know, mountains may look beautiful but they can also be the most hostile of environments. Mountain weather can be changeable and when the those skies change for the worst, well trodden and popular trails have presented difficulty for even the most accomplished of hikers. During my time in New Zealand we’ve heard of too many cases of trampers winding up in life threatening situations or unfortunatly loosing their lives to the Mountains.
So Before setting out on any of the trails mentioned above, be sure to check that YOUR SKILLS and FITNESS meet the demands of the walk. ALWAYS pack accordingly. ALWAYS check the weather is suitable for the adventure. ALWAYS register your intentions with someone; and ALWAYS check the trail conditons. Many of the trails mentioned above are littered with avalanche pathways in Winter and Spring time and their terrain can become tretcherous, making them unsuitable for all but the most experienced of Mountaineers. Don’t be that guy. A cool ass photo simply isn’t worth your life.

Oh and remember… “Take only photos, leave only footprints“. New Zealand landscapes are incerdible. Lets keep it that way! 🙂

Milford or Doubtful Sound… Backpacking dilemmas in the land of the Long White Cloud

September 8, 2016September 15, 2016 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / 5 Comments

A trip to the popular Milford or Doubtful Sound usually ranks high on the bucket list of most backpackers travelling around the Land of the Long White Cloud. But with dozens of companies operating year round commercial cruises in two differing “Sounds”, it’s difficult to know which to visit, at what time of the year and how best to experience one of New Zealand’s most acclaimed natural attractions.

So, as we’ve somehow wound up having Fiordland National Park as our back garden, we’ve been lucky enough to try out most cruise and kayak trips available in this beautiful part of the world and decided to put together some tips to help you get the most out of your time here.

So, which Sound??

Two of the most common questions we’ve been asked since working in Te Anau have been: ‘What’s the difference between Milford and Doubtful Sound?’ and ‘ Which one is better?’

And the truth is… there’s no easy answer.

Labelled Sounds by early explorers, Milford and Doubtful are both in fact Fjords (or Fiords) and are just two out of a total of 14 fjords that indent the 215km of Fiordland World Heritage Coastline. Carved out by the crushing power of ancient glaciers, both offer scenes of undeniable beauty. Towering peaks soar vertically from the dark waters below. Thunderous waterfalls cascade over rocky outcrops. Forests of ferns and Beech trees cling precariously to sheer rock faces. And rarely seen sea life can be spotted taking haven from the turbulent Tasman sea.

So in terms of the perceived environment you will be immersing yourself in, there is little difference. The most noticeable differences between Milford and Doubtful Sound instead lie in their size, price tag and the feeling of wilderness and isolation that they project.

Milford Sound is arguably one of New Zealand’s biggest tourist destinations and it’s easy to see why. This narrow fjord will leave you feeling insignificant beneath its soaring summits and in awe of the majestic Mitre Peak.

And arguably as beautiful as Milford itself is the journey to get there. Milford can be reached via state Highway 94, just a 2 hour drive from Te Anau- making this easily the most accessible Fjord in Fiordland National Park. This historic road skirts Lake Te Anau, New Zealand’s 2^nd largest lake, before following the Eglinton River through dramatic valley flats. From here the road winds and climbs to a staggering 945meters through the Darran Mountains before climaxing at the infamous Homer Tunnel. This feat of human engineering and ingenuity carves its way 1.2 km through a wall of otherwise impassable rock, opening up a hair raising decent into the beautiful Milford Sound.

Along the way you’ll pass pristine mirror lakes; raging waterfalls; glacial rivers; sublime mountain scenery; deep rock chasms and endless vantage points offering views of the surrounding forested valleys. If you’re a keen tramper, this road also gives you access to (in our opinion) some of the best short and multi day walks that the South Island has to offer!

Top Tip: Opt for an early morning cruise. Make ‘Mirror lake’ your only stop en-route to Milford and then after your cruise, spend the rest of your day exploring this beautiful road and all it has to offer on your way back to Te Anau. This itinerary does mean a fairly early start, but dragging yourself out of bed that little bit earlier will help you get the most out of your trip to Milford, and with generally lower winds and calmer weather patterns early morning, you’re more likely to get those picture perfect views.

Doubtful Sound is a fjord of epic proportions. Stretching its crooked arms outward from the dense forests of Fiordland to the turbulent waters of the Tasman Sea, Doubtful Sound is around three times the length and ten times the area of Milford Sound.

Cut off from public road access, the only way to reach the shores of Deep Cove and embark on a cruise or kayak adventure in Doubtful, is to first take a 60 minute boat ride across the beautiful Lake Manapouri before boarding a coach and travelling up and over Wilmot Pass. This mountain pass is notorious for the challenges mother nature can throw at it- but the long journey is well worth the time and effort.

Doubtful offers a remote wilderness experience a world away from the busy tourist terminals and endless passing of vessels on the water ways of Milford Sound. Jurassic in appearance and ambience, it truly is a slice of serenity in an otherwise busy world.

So with all of this in mind, which Sound should you choose? Well, if money is no object then an overnighter in Doubtful, along with a day trip in Milford and a scenic over-flight of the National Park will give you the ultimate Fiordland experience. But if, like most backpackers, you’re conscious of that ever dwindling bank balance, then your more than likely going to be investing your hard earned cash into just one of these trips. Continue reading →

A winter “WWOOFing” next to Paradise: An unexpected Journey

October 21, 2015November 3, 2015 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / 10 Comments

Nestled on the fringe of the Northern shores of Lake Wakatipu is the tiny village of Kinloch. Home to just 8 residents, this remote idyllic location offers the perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle of Queenstown and for us a chance to save some serious dollar over the winter months by WWOOFing (Willing Workers on Organic Farms) and working at the beautiful Kinloch Lodge (YHA).

During the summer season Kinloch comes alive with trekkers, tourists and locals in search of culinary delights and a comfortable bed for the night en-route to one of New Zealand’s premiere walking routes. But with avalanche paths making popular ‘tramping’ tracks off limits to all those but the most experienced of Alpinists over the winter months; and plummeting winter temperatures keeping all but the hardiest of people away, our time at Kinloch offered a much, much quieter experience. Which in my opinion is exactly how this incredible setting is best enjoyed.

But for the majority of guests passing through, the idea that we had chosen to spend over two months without a car in a spot where we needed to cycle 9km to our post box, kayak 30 minutes to the nearest store or hitch a ride 70km drive to the nearest sizable town, made them instantly question our sanity before inevitably asking the question… “But don’t you get bored here??”

What I should have replied with was my Dads favourite line when I was growing up, which was ‘Only boring people get bored!’ But instead I’d just smile and shake my head. Because seriously, how could you ever get bored in a place that offers this…

A picture Perfect Scene

To reach the picture perfect shores of Kinloch you first need to take one of New Zealand’s most scenic drives, the Glenorchy Road to Paradise. Stretching 68 km, this river of tarmac dips and winds its way high above Wakatipu’s waters edge, offering breath-taking mountain Views around every turn and bend.

After leaving the lakeside behind, the road begins to briefly snake inland through rolling green farms to an area of natural beauty so iconic that its gnarled forests, towering snow-capped peaks and sprawling river valleys that it became the setting of much of the acclaimed Lord of The Rings series. But in terms of scenic beauty, this was only the start of things to come.

With Lake Wakatipu and the Humboldt & Richardson mountain ranges as the backdrop to our life in Kinloch, stepping outside away from the warmth of a roaring fire felt like stepping straight onto the strokes of an artistic masterpiece. Except this was no man-made scene. This was a living picture that was forever changing depending on a cauldron of factors which could create picture perfection even on the most unlikely of days.

But Kinloch’s beauty wasn’t confined to just the light of day. Sat all alone over 70kms from the bustling metropolis of Queenstown, Kinloch’s lack of light pollution gave the opportunity to spend crisp clear winter evenings in the steamy depths of a hilltop hot-tub, staring up at a blanket of twinkling stars and the mesmerising swirls of the Milky Way. A spot perfect for catching a glimpse of the illusive Southern Lights dancing across the night sky… if your lucky enough that is (we however were not – sleeping through two major solar storms!!)

A playground for adventure

Kinloch’s lakeside location and proximity to countless walking tracks, including one of the world’s top 10 trails, makes it the ultimate base for adventure. Whether we were exploring the surrounding areas on day walks, venturing out on multi day hikes, paddling our way across lakes to uninhabited islands, or running and cycling around woodland tracks and winding mountain roads, we were never short of something to do. Life at Kinloch offered the perfect opportunity to submerge ourselves in the great outdoors and reconnect to nature in the safe knowledge that a roaring log fire and plentiful meals would be the reward at the end of the day.

Work life Variety

With the hostel operating at a lower capacity over the winter months, meaning less beds to change and thankfully less toilet bowls to clean, the majority of our ‘wwoofing’ hours were put to use preparing the building and grounds for the upcoming busy summer season.

Not shy to getting my hands dirty or doing the odd bit of DIY, I opted for the jobs which kept me outdoors and active. From weeding, to clearing out gutters, chopping wood, tending to chickens, painting, collecting drift wood, cutting back meadows of lavender and gardening in the organic vegetable patch, I was never short of a task that was a world away from my previous working life as a Social Worker.

Danielle however, preferring the luring smell of freshly ground coffee beans and the comfort and warmth of a cosy café, opted where ever she could to make the 30 minute scenic drive to Kinloch’s sister business ‘The Trading Post’ café, in hopes of developing her barista skills and the art of pouring the perfect cup of coffee.

And a good bunch of people

As with most of our traveling adventures, it’s often been the people we’ve met along the way that have made our journeys truly memorable and this couldn’t have been truer for our time in Kinloch. With a notoriously quiet winter season and a growing blanket of icy cold darkness about the place, what could have felt more like an eternity in the isolated realms of Mordor or a date with a death eater instead was transformed into an inspiring experience thanks to the majority of people we had the pleasure to work alongside.

In the wwoofing team there was Chris, a Cumbrian mountain dweller who shares my slightly unnerving love for maps and all things outdoors, and who helped to develop our understanding of how to capture those perfect shots through a lens;

Nadia the blonde Beverian who made a mean hot chocolate and taught us to speak all kinds of German with a fridge and its contents as her aid – what more would you need to know?

Flo the long haired Frenchman who made late night feasting on crepes and homemade salted caramel popcorn a regular feature of wwoofing life and whose innate hatred for all things English couldn’t withstand our. witty English charm;

and more recently Michael, Chris and Laura who we had the pleasure of sharing our final nights at Kinloch with, righting the world over many cups of tea.

And then of cause there was the staff. Emma-Kate and Patrick, an exceptionally talented & creative couple perfectly suited and living proof that my work/ life ideology is more than possible. And finally Caro, an incredible woman who has defied the “norms” of society to literally brick by brick and plant by plant, independently built up her organic eco living dreams all around her.

Unfortunately we didn’t get a chance to get to know the owners of Kinloch as they were off jet setting on their own around the world adventure for the duration of our time there, but their hospitality and thanks on their return made for a perfect ending to the first chapter of our New Zealand adventure.