A trip to the popular Milford or Doubtful Sound usually ranks high on the bucket list of most backpackers travelling around the Land of the Long White Cloud. But with dozens of companies operating year round commercial cruises in two differing “Sounds”, it’s difficult to know which to visit, at what time of the year and how best to experience one of New Zealand’s most acclaimed natural attractions.

So, as we’ve somehow wound up having Fiordland National Park as our back garden, we’ve been lucky enough to try out most cruise and kayak trips available in this beautiful part of the world and decided to put together some tips to help you get the most out of your time here.

So, which Sound??

Two of the most common questions we’ve been asked since working in Te Anau have been: ‘What’s the difference between Milford and Doubtful Sound?’ and ‘ Which one is better?’

And the truth is… there’s no easy answer.

Labelled Sounds by early explorers, Milford and Doubtful are both in fact Fjords (or Fiords) and are just two out of a total of 14 fjords that indent the 215km of Fiordland World Heritage Coastline. Carved out by the crushing power of ancient glaciers, both offer scenes of undeniable beauty. Towering peaks soar vertically from the dark waters below. Thunderous waterfalls cascade over rocky outcrops. Forests of ferns and Beech trees cling precariously to sheer rock faces. And rarely seen sea life can be spotted taking haven from the turbulent Tasman sea.

So in terms of the perceived environment you will be immersing yourself in, there is little difference. The most noticeable differences between Milford and Doubtful Sound instead lie in their size, price tag and the feeling of wilderness and isolation that they project.

Milford Sound is arguably one of New Zealand’s biggest tourist destinations and it’s easy to see why. This narrow fjord will leave you feeling insignificant beneath its soaring summits and in awe of the majestic Mitre Peak.

And arguably as beautiful as Milford itself is the journey to get there. Milford can be reached via state Highway 94, just a 2 hour drive from Te Anau- making this easily the most accessible Fjord in Fiordland National Park. This historic road skirts Lake Te Anau, New Zealand’s 2^nd largest lake, before following the Eglinton River through dramatic valley flats. From here the road winds and climbs to a staggering 945meters through the Darran Mountains before climaxing at the infamous Homer Tunnel. This feat of human engineering and ingenuity carves its way 1.2 km through a wall of otherwise impassable rock, opening up a hair raising decent into the beautiful Milford Sound.

Along the way you’ll pass pristine mirror lakes; raging waterfalls; glacial rivers; sublime mountain scenery; deep rock chasms and endless vantage points offering views of the surrounding forested valleys. If you’re a keen tramper, this road also gives you access to (in our opinion) some of the best short and multi day walks that the South Island has to offer!

Top Tip: Opt for an early morning cruise. Make ‘Mirror lake’ your only stop en-route to Milford and then after your cruise, spend the rest of your day exploring this beautiful road and all it has to offer on your way back to Te Anau. This itinerary does mean a fairly early start, but dragging yourself out of bed that little bit earlier will help you get the most out of your trip to Milford, and with generally lower winds and calmer weather patterns early morning, you’re more likely to get those picture perfect views.

Doubtful Sound is a fjord of epic proportions. Stretching its crooked arms outward from the dense forests of Fiordland to the turbulent waters of the Tasman Sea, Doubtful Sound is around three times the length and ten times the area of Milford Sound.

Cut off from public road access, the only way to reach the shores of Deep Cove and embark on a cruise or kayak adventure in Doubtful, is to first take a 60 minute boat ride across the beautiful Lake Manapouri before boarding a coach and travelling up and over Wilmot Pass. This mountain pass is notorious for the challenges mother nature can throw at it- but the long journey is well worth the time and effort.

Doubtful offers a remote wilderness experience a world away from the busy tourist terminals and endless passing of vessels on the water ways of Milford Sound. Jurassic in appearance and ambience, it truly is a slice of serenity in an otherwise busy world.

So with all of this in mind, which Sound should you choose? Well, if money is no object then an overnighter in Doubtful, along with a day trip in Milford and a scenic over-flight of the National Park will give you the ultimate Fiordland experience. But if, like most backpackers, you’re conscious of that ever dwindling bank balance, then your more than likely going to be investing your hard earned cash into just one of these trips. Continue reading →