Ten Scenic Day hikes in New Zealand’s South Island that you shouldn’t miss

November 20, 2016November 29, 2016 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / Leave a comment

New Zealand is famed for its picturesque landscapes, soaring mountains, untouched wilderness and of cause it’s ‘Great Walks’. But if your don’t have the time, money, gear, or simply the will to trek day after day with a heavy pack on your back… why not instead get your boots out and stretch those legs of yours on one of New Zealand’s beautiful days walks? It would pretty much be a crime not to! So, in no particular order, here’s our top pick for the South Island….

1. Isthmus Peak (Wanaka)

Best For: Lake Vistas and all-round awesomeness

When it comes to day hikes in and around the Wanaka area, everyone seems to be all about Roys Peak. But for us, the lesser known Isthmus Peak is where it’s at. The trail, which begins near the head of Lake Hawea, just a short drive from the township of Wanaka, offers expansive views across Lake Hawea, Lake Wanaka and the Southern Alps. That’s double the punch of Mountains and Lake Vistas.

Incredibly, Isthamus Peak hasn’t hit the ‘backpacker’ radar yet in the same way that other peaks have- and that’s one of the things that we love so much about this trail.

Lake Hawea

Lake Wanaka

2. Ben Lomond Track (Queenstown)

Best For: An Ariel view of the Adventure Capital

Looming above the metropolis of Queenstown is Ben Lomond. A lofty peak with a well maintained and marked trail which offers a unique view of the adventure capital of the world. The trail begins with a steep uphill grunt through sweet smelling Pine forrest, before it opens out and continues to ascend through alpine tussuck and shrubs, to Ben Lomond Saddle at 1326 meters. The Saddle is a great vantage point of the sourrounding valleys, peaks and lakes. But for really spectacular panoramic views that will leave you lost for words, continue up a rough, steep and slightly more exposed trail to the mountain summit at 1748 meters. From here, your valiant uphill effort will be rewarded with some of the most stunning 360 degree scenery that any of New Zealand’s day walks have to offer. To the North, vast valleys and canyons cut through the landscape. To the South East is the infamous and striking, Remarkables Mountain Range. To the West the beautiful Moke Lake. And to the South across the vast blue waters of Lake Wakitupu, Walter and Cecil Peaks.It doesn’t get much better than this.

3. Gertrude Saddle (Fiordland)

Best For: Vast valleys and Sea to Summit views

Starting from an unnamed carpark on the eastern side of the Homer Tunnel is Gertrude Valley. This U shaped valley is an incredible example of Glacial carving and offers one of the most interesting and more challenging day walks in Fiordland National Park… if not the whole of the South Island.

The trail to the valley head will take you across bolder strewn river beds, through a small section of native forest and across alpine meadows, before reaching the dramatic vertical walls at the head of the valley. Here, the marked trail abruptly ends and is replaced by a rough, unmarked trail dotted with cairns. Climbing steeply, the faint trail cuts up to the left of the valley, traversing gushing waterfalls, crystal clear rock pools and the dark waters of the aptly named ‘Black Lake’. As the terrain steepens to a near vertical scramble, a number of fixed metal ropes provide a welcomed relief for those with less of a head for heights and only add to the adventure of this trail. The Saddle itself affords views down a densely forested valley, all the way to magnificent Milford Sound and Tasman Sea. An epic view for those lucky enough to land a day in Fiordand which isn’t shrouded in low lying cloud!

*Gertrude Saddle has challenging terrain and can become treacherous in bad weather conditions. It should only by attempted by those with suitable backcountry skills and experience.

4. Mt Campbell (Mavora Lakes)
Best For: Exposed ridge lines and escaping the crowds on off-trail adventures

If solitude and adventure is what you’re after, and you have the back country skills to match your enthusiasm, then Mt Campbell is a great option for an ‘off trail’ day walk. The summit, which sits at 1683 meters, provides spectacular views of the Livingstone Range and magical Mavora Lakes. In fact the landscape around Mavora is so strikingly beautiful that it was used as a number of filming locations for Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings series.

Expect a challenge with this one. You’ll find yourself bushbashing through dense forrest, being sliced and shredded by vicious tussock grassland, and then precariously scrambling your way across narrow ridgelines. For me, this is what being in the Mountains is all about.

5. Roy’s Peak Track (Wanaka)

Best For: Stunning Sunrise’s

If you’ve been around New Zealand for a while, then there’s a good chance that your Insta feed will have been clogged up with images of backpackers posing for selfies and jumping into the air starfish style on the popolur Roy’s Peak track. And its pretty easy to see why. The ridgeline that leads down from Roy’s peak to the vast waters of Lake Wanaka and its many picturesque islands, makes for an incredibly photogenic image that will keep you wanting to go back for more.

But for us, the down side to the beauty, relative ease and accessibility of this peak, is the big numbers of hikers it attracts. So to beat the crowds and enjoy the solitude that every mountain experience should entail, start your trek under the star studded cloak of the nights sky to reach the ridgeline just before sunrise. Find a rock, park your ass, layer up and watch as the sky, peaks and lakes are touched by a kaleidoscope of colours as the fiery sun rises on the distant horizon. What a way to start a new day (and for me..my 30th Birthday!) Incredible.

6. Mt John via Lakeshore (Tekapo)

Best For: Being awestruck by Azure waters

Mt John looks like more of a hill than a mountain and certainly would be classed as one in Hymalayan terms. But standing at just 1031 meters, this rounded peak offers a pleasant 3 hour circular walk, with vast views of the azure glacial waters of Lake Teapo, the hidden waters of Lake Alexandrina and the distant snow capped peaks of the Southern Alps. Perfect for a quick stretch of the legs before hitting the road.

7. Rocky Mountain (Wanaka)

Best For: Epic Views:Effort Ratio

Climbing this peak isn’t likely to leave the seasoned hiker with a feeling of accomplishment or even exertion. But for sheer epic views-to-effort ratio, for us, this trail wins hands down.

Beginning from a car park on Aspiring Road just past Glhendu Bay (Wanaka), the trail passes Diamond Lake before gradually climbing to the Summit which boasts beautiful views down to Roys Peninsula and an entirely different perspective of the stunning Lake Wanaka. Normally I’m all about the circular walks, but if you want to get the best views this trail has to offer, plus a little exposure, we recommend taking the East Track on both legs of the journey for this one. Enjoy.

8. Mt. Alfred (Glenorchy)

Best For: Gazing out over graded rivers

At the northern end of lake Wakitupu, between two vast valleys stands a lone mountain- Mount Alfred. Offering incredible views across two graded rivers (Rees & Dart) and grandure of Aspiring National Park and the majestic Mt. Earnslaw, this took place as one of our firm favourites. Unfortunatley, access beyong the bushline to the ridge and sumit has been restricted recently, but we just couldnt exclude this one from our list!

9. Lake Marian (Lower Hollyford, near Milford)

Best for: Hanging Valleys and Majestic Lakes

This track begins with a gentle ten minute stroll along a boardwalk next to the gushing white waters of Marian Falls. The track then becomes gradually harder and evolves into more of a rough trail with some small sections of easy scrambling- making for a more interesting ascent than your typical DOC trail. After a 1.5 – 2 hours push, you’ll find yourself at the foot of the captivating Lake Marian- an Alpine lake sat in a hanging valley, sourrounded by the Darran mountains- a spot that suprisingly often you can have all to yourselves.

10. Sealy Tarns Track (Aoraki/ Mount Cook NP)

Best For: Grand Peaks, ice bergs and sprawling glaciers

Home to sprawling glaciers, permanent snow fields and 23 peaks over 3000 meteres, you might think that Mount Cook National Park would be off limits to all but the most accomplished of mountaineers. But luckily, the creation of a number of trails in and around the Tasman and Hooker Valleys offer mere mortals, like me, a glimpse into a majestic and otherwise inhospitable landscape that is Aoraki. After much deliberation, we’ve decided that our favourite of all the trails, is the Sealy Tarns track. A 1-2.5 hour vertical slog up a never ending stream of steep steps will see you at a picturesque Tarn, overlooking arguabley some of the most stunning Mountain Scenary New Zealand has to offer. Continuing onwards and upwards for another 1-2 hours, you’ll reach the perfectly located Mueller Hut- a great option if your looking for an epic overnight Alpine experience.

DON’T BE THAT GUY

As most people know, mountains may look beautiful but they can also be the most hostile of environments. Mountain weather can be changeable and when the those skies change for the worst, well trodden and popular trails have presented difficulty for even the most accomplished of hikers. During my time in New Zealand we’ve heard of too many cases of trampers winding up in life threatening situations or unfortunatly loosing their lives to the Mountains.
So Before setting out on any of the trails mentioned above, be sure to check that YOUR SKILLS and FITNESS meet the demands of the walk. ALWAYS pack accordingly. ALWAYS check the weather is suitable for the adventure. ALWAYS register your intentions with someone; and ALWAYS check the trail conditons. Many of the trails mentioned above are littered with avalanche pathways in Winter and Spring time and their terrain can become tretcherous, making them unsuitable for all but the most experienced of Mountaineers. Don’t be that guy. A cool ass photo simply isn’t worth your life.

Oh and remember… “Take only photos, leave only footprints“. New Zealand landscapes are incerdible. Lets keep it that way! 🙂

Cool off this Summer in 5 of the TOP water holes NZ’s South Island has to offer

November 12, 2016November 21, 2016 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / 2 Comments

Jumping into icey cold water on a blistering hot sunny day is one of the simple joys in life. But combine this with stunning alpine scenery and pristine fresh water, and you’ve got yourself a swimming experience that you’ll never forget! So with summer fast approaching and temperatures beginning to rise, we’ve put together a list (in no particular order) of our favourite spots to cool off while backpacking New Zealands South Island.

1. Blue Pools (Haast)

There’s few places in the world that look truly inviting even on a rainy day- but Blue Pools is defiantly one of them! Just a short walk from State Highway 6 roadside, are a series of pristine pools carved out by millions of years of erosion. Acting almost like a basin, these pools catch azure blue glacial fed waters which are so clear that you’d swear there must be a giant sized Brita filter in there somewhere. Absolute Perfection.

2. Glendhu Bay (Wanaka)

Don’t fancy hiking for hours just to take a dip? Then check out Glendhu Bay. This picturesque bay is accessible straight from the roadside meaning you can park up, set up the deck chairs, get ou the barby and cool yourself off in Lake Wanaka’s crystal clear waters between baking yourself in the Summer sun. This water will chill you to the bones, so have your towel basking in the sun ready to warm you right up again. Happy Days!

No car? No worries! A walking/ cycling trail skirts the lake’s edge and starts at Roys Bay in the centre of Wanaka. This well paved, fairly undulating track allows you to take in iconic scenery, including the infamous “Wanaka Tree”. At Waterfall creek, continue along the track until you reach Glendhu Bay, enjoying secluded pebbled beaches and the majestic beauty of Mt Aspiring along the way.

3. Moke Lake (Queenstown)

Just 12kms outside of Queenstown, along an unsealed road lies the little hidden gem that is Moke Lake. This simple but beautiful DOC campsite is the perfect spot for a days picnic and a dip into refreshing waters. If you’re the camping type, this site will suit you perfectly. Pitch your tent on the waters edge, marvel at a starry night sky free from light pollution, and enjoy a morning bath that’s sure to wake you up and get you ready for an action-filled day in New Zealand’s Adventure Capital. During summer months, this campsite will set you back just $13 per person per night, and is only accessible by 4 wheel drive during winter/ spring months.

4. Innanomate pools, Gertrude Valley (Fiordland)

What better way to end one of New Zealand’s best day walks than by immersing yourself in one of the innanomate pools flowing down from Black Lake high above the Gertrude Valler floor. Even when shrouded in low lying cloud, the dramatic atmosphere created by the U shaped soaring granite walls and vast valley flats will leave you itching to jump in! Just remember you still have a long walk out from Gertrude Saddle and these waters are as cold as ice- so be prepared with a trek towel and warm dry clothes!! No one wants to ruin their jollys with a case of hypothermia!

5. Lake Marian (Fiordland)

Lake Marian is an alpine lake that sits in a hanging valley, surrounded by snow capped mountains and is fed by glacial waters. Doesn’t sound like it could get much better does it? Well it can. You see, what makes this place even more spectacular is that it seems to be off the radar of most tourists and backpackers making their pilgrimage to Milford Sound… meaning that you pretty much have the whole place to yourself! Even the sandflies don’t seem to have heard much about this place! Definitely the perfect spot for a bit of skinny dipping me thinks 😉

A backpacker’s guide to crossing ‘An Encounter with a Kiwi’ off that ever growing bucket list

November 11, 2016November 11, 2016 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / Leave a comment

New Zealand is known as the land of the Kiwi’s. There’s the green or golden fruity kind. The gumboot wearing, pie eating human kind. And then of course there’s every New Zealanders favourite- the long beaked, feathery flightless kind- The elusive Kiwi Bird.

But despite being New Zealand’s National Icon, this Kiwi in particular proves a little more difficult to stumble across than your average tatty old pigeon down your local high street. So difficult in fact, that our quest to spot a Kiwi saw us travel to two different islands; trek over 40kms; scour tracks by day and deserted forests and backcountry lanes by night (sorry mum); sleep in rat infested camps; be devoured by swarms of blood hungry sand-flies; and even get chased off trail and into the thick bush by a ferocious sea-lion ready to rip us limb from limb. And was the pain, sleep deprivation, and blood loss all worth it you ask? Well for five minutes of solitude with a Kiwi in the wild, it most definitely was!

So if like us, you’re a nature whore, who’s trip to NZ just wouldn’t be the same without setting your beady little eyes on one of these big booty’d birds foraging in its natural fern filled habitat, check out these tips for spotting a Kiwi out in the wild without the expense and crowds of an organised tour.

Where to begin

Some wise guy once said it’s all about ‘location, location, location’ and when it comes to finding the Kiwi Bird it most definitely is (unless you have the luck of a Leprechaun that is!). Now endangered, these little balls of wonder can only be found in just a few remote, heavily forested locations around New Zealand. And not only are they rare and difficult to find, but they are also nocturnal, presenting another issue for the diurnal human who enjoys that beautiful thing called sleep! But strangely enough, there just so happens to be one anomaly amongst the Kiwi family and that is the Rakiura Tokoeka (Southern Brown) Kiwi bird. Unlike its other Kiwi relatives, this particular species of Kiwi bird is known to disregard natural Kiwi behaviour and dabble in foraging during the day (perhaps one of the reasons these little guys are becoming extinct!!). These day dwellers can be found on the shores of Rakiura (or Stewart Island, as it is more commonly known). And that’s exactly where our trail lead us.

To make the 30km journey across the Foveaux Strait, you can catch a catamaran with Real Journeys, who operates a daily Ferry Service service between Bluff, a costal seaside town famed for its Oysters, and picturesque Oban, the only town on the whole island of Rakiura. Prices very month to month and peak during the main summer/ tourist season. Tickets in November will set you back $75 each way, but buying a return ticket will save you some much needed dolla. Luckily ,if you need to shift your return journey back to give you more time to find that Kiwi Bird, Real Journeys operate a 24 hr cancellation/ modification policy giving you a little more flexibility with your trip!

Stewart Island’s Kiwi Hot Spots:

Tracks and Trails

Steward Island’s 1746 km² of pristine wilderness is dissected by a number of remote, long distance tracks and trails that are prime Kiwi territory, but unless you have a lot of time and are willing to wade through chest high mud, you may want to give these trails a miss!

The most accessible of all of the trails on Stewart Island is the Rakiura Track– a 32km well maintained loop track and one of New Zealand’s ‘Great Walks’, which can be walked directly from Oban itself. On arrival, we were tipped off by a local DOC ranger that Kiwi birds are often spotted hanging around Port William Camp Site at dawn and dusk and also along the inland section of forest between Port William and North Arm hut during the day. As we were short on time, we opted to do the most picturesque section of the walk and camp overnight for optimal Kiwi viewing. Unfortunately, we lucked out on the Kiwi front this time, but I couldn’t recommend this 26km return adventure enough! This section of the trail is the most undulating section, beautifully scenic and if you don’t mind your pitch being overrun by rats and sand-flies, Port William is the perfect spot to end a days tramping, to watch the sun rise, and if you’re lucky enough, even catch the aurora on a super clear night.

Oban Township

Notorious for being shy and reclusive, a township would be the last place you’d expect to find a Kiwi, right? Well apparently, you’d be wrong to think that! Once again we lucked out in our search for the Kiwi Bird in Oban’s coastal town, but if you read any hostel’s ‘Kiwi Sightings’ log book, you’ll find report after report of backpackers and tourists bumping into Kiwi’s in and around town as the sun begins to fade. Here’s a list of the current ‘hot spots’:

Traill Park- Take the short ‘Fuchsia Walk’ from Dundee street to ‘Traill Park’. This ruby pitch is boarded by dense forest and apparently Kiwi’s can be seen scurrying around the pitch after dark.
Raroa Walk- From the far end of the Rugby pitch on ‘Traill Park’, take the ‘Raroa’ trail through a section of forest rich in Bird Life. Lots of people have claimed sightings right along this trail that will lead you to the beautiful Golden Bay.

Loop the ‘Back Road’- This is only one I’d recommend as a last resort and if you have nerves of steel. Stewart Island feels like one of the safest places on earth and probably is, but regardless of that, there’s something ridiculously creepy about roaming deserted back country lanes for an hour and a half in the middle of the night. Every rustling bush and eerie screech will have you thinking you’re walking straight into the set of a horror film when your path is lit only by the beam of your torch. But according to a local fisherman we hitched with from Horseshoe bay to Halfmoon bay, making a loop of the back end of town in the early hours of the morning will lead you straight to a local Kiwi hangout. The junction where ‘Back Road’ meets ‘Hicks Road’, and the bridges over ‘Mill Creek’ are apparently particular hot spots! Route: Main Road; Back Road; Hicks Road; Horseshoe Bay Road; back to Main Road.

Ulva Island

Despite doing lots of reading on Kiwi birds and the best places to find them, Ulva Island never hit our radar until the day before we were due to leave Stewart Island. But thankfully it did! This small predator- free, road- free, and virtually inhabitant- free island has become a sanctuary for rare and native birds such as the Kiwi, Saddleback, Yellowhead and Kaka parrot, and will leave you feeling like you’ve been transported back to Jurassic times when animals ruled the world.

Within 3 hours of being on the island, 3 out of the 4 couples we shared a boat with, left having had the Kiwi encounter they had hoped for…including us! And what a memorable encounter it was! With just 30 minutes to go before we departed the island, it looked like we’d be leaving NZ without even a glimpse of a Kiwi, when we were suddenly stopped in our tracks by a sea of parting ferns. Then to our absolute astonishment, in the board light of day, out pops a long protruding beak followed by a tiny head and a massive ball of a body! A kiwi bird at last! Scared that we would frighten her off, we froze to the spot and watched on as she thoughtfully strutted between us both and even got close enough to sniff Danielle’s brightly coloured shoes! Another epic and unforgettable fairy-tale moment in our travels around the world.

So before going trekking through forests with heavily laden bags; and wandering the back streets in the dead of night, fork out $20 for a return ticket to Ulva Island with Ulva Island Ferry , and even if you don’t spot a Kiwi, you really won’t regret visiting this beautiful place!

To give yourself the best chance of spotting the Kiwi and truly experience all of the flora and fauna that Ulva island has to offer, we’d defiantly recommend a full day trip. Take a picnic, relax and enjoy. And remember, leave only foot prints and take only memories. This is an amazing sanctuary- lets keep it that way.

The ferry departs Golden Bay Wharf (Stewart Island) prompt at 9am; 12pm; and 4pm* and returns from Post Office Wharf (Ulva Island) at 12pm; 4pm and 6pm* Monday-Saturday. No ferry service currently operate on a Sunday and take CASH ONLY payments. (*Summertime)

Top tip: Move slowly along the trail. Listen for rustles and be patient! Stand still for a little while and let the birds come to you. Once you see them fluttering around, kick up a bit of mulch and you’ll soon have Robins eating at your feet.

Stewart Island Top Tips

When to visit: Spring is one of the best times to visit the island. Bird watching is best at this time particularly for spotting chicks. There’s still a chance of an Aurora; crowds are fewer so accommodation and dining out is easier to wing; plus the weather is a little warmer than the cold winter months.

Where to stay: We can’t recommend Stewart Island Backpackers enough! This place has tent sites, dorm beds and private rooms; clean and ample hostel facilities and the staff are super friendly and helpful. They operate a cash back service meaning you can avoid nasty ATM fees and they are flexible with checking out time for tent pitches, meaning you can take your time and even leave your gear behind while you explore the island a little more.

Where to eat: There’s not too much in the way of food on the island. There is however a small Four Square Supermarket for all your basics. Expect to pay a little more than your average shop over here! There are also a couple of café’s; a Fish & Chip shop; and a pub called South Sea Hotel – We’d highly recommend the Fish and Chips here. The cod tasted as though it had jumped straight out of the sea and the batter and chips were to die for!

Banks: There are no banks on the island and only 2 ATM’s which you have to pay a fee to use- so stock up on any cash you might need before making the journey across the Foveaux strait!

Milford or Doubtful Sound… Backpacking dilemmas in the land of the Long White Cloud

September 8, 2016September 15, 2016 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / 5 Comments

A trip to the popular Milford or Doubtful Sound usually ranks high on the bucket list of most backpackers travelling around the Land of the Long White Cloud. But with dozens of companies operating year round commercial cruises in two differing “Sounds”, it’s difficult to know which to visit, at what time of the year and how best to experience one of New Zealand’s most acclaimed natural attractions.

So, as we’ve somehow wound up having Fiordland National Park as our back garden, we’ve been lucky enough to try out most cruise and kayak trips available in this beautiful part of the world and decided to put together some tips to help you get the most out of your time here.

So, which Sound??

Two of the most common questions we’ve been asked since working in Te Anau have been: ‘What’s the difference between Milford and Doubtful Sound?’ and ‘ Which one is better?’

And the truth is… there’s no easy answer.

Labelled Sounds by early explorers, Milford and Doubtful are both in fact Fjords (or Fiords) and are just two out of a total of 14 fjords that indent the 215km of Fiordland World Heritage Coastline. Carved out by the crushing power of ancient glaciers, both offer scenes of undeniable beauty. Towering peaks soar vertically from the dark waters below. Thunderous waterfalls cascade over rocky outcrops. Forests of ferns and Beech trees cling precariously to sheer rock faces. And rarely seen sea life can be spotted taking haven from the turbulent Tasman sea.

So in terms of the perceived environment you will be immersing yourself in, there is little difference. The most noticeable differences between Milford and Doubtful Sound instead lie in their size, price tag and the feeling of wilderness and isolation that they project.

Milford Sound is arguably one of New Zealand’s biggest tourist destinations and it’s easy to see why. This narrow fjord will leave you feeling insignificant beneath its soaring summits and in awe of the majestic Mitre Peak.

And arguably as beautiful as Milford itself is the journey to get there. Milford can be reached via state Highway 94, just a 2 hour drive from Te Anau- making this easily the most accessible Fjord in Fiordland National Park. This historic road skirts Lake Te Anau, New Zealand’s 2^nd largest lake, before following the Eglinton River through dramatic valley flats. From here the road winds and climbs to a staggering 945meters through the Darran Mountains before climaxing at the infamous Homer Tunnel. This feat of human engineering and ingenuity carves its way 1.2 km through a wall of otherwise impassable rock, opening up a hair raising decent into the beautiful Milford Sound.

Along the way you’ll pass pristine mirror lakes; raging waterfalls; glacial rivers; sublime mountain scenery; deep rock chasms and endless vantage points offering views of the surrounding forested valleys. If you’re a keen tramper, this road also gives you access to (in our opinion) some of the best short and multi day walks that the South Island has to offer!

Top Tip: Opt for an early morning cruise. Make ‘Mirror lake’ your only stop en-route to Milford and then after your cruise, spend the rest of your day exploring this beautiful road and all it has to offer on your way back to Te Anau. This itinerary does mean a fairly early start, but dragging yourself out of bed that little bit earlier will help you get the most out of your trip to Milford, and with generally lower winds and calmer weather patterns early morning, you’re more likely to get those picture perfect views.

Doubtful Sound is a fjord of epic proportions. Stretching its crooked arms outward from the dense forests of Fiordland to the turbulent waters of the Tasman Sea, Doubtful Sound is around three times the length and ten times the area of Milford Sound.

Cut off from public road access, the only way to reach the shores of Deep Cove and embark on a cruise or kayak adventure in Doubtful, is to first take a 60 minute boat ride across the beautiful Lake Manapouri before boarding a coach and travelling up and over Wilmot Pass. This mountain pass is notorious for the challenges mother nature can throw at it- but the long journey is well worth the time and effort.

Doubtful offers a remote wilderness experience a world away from the busy tourist terminals and endless passing of vessels on the water ways of Milford Sound. Jurassic in appearance and ambience, it truly is a slice of serenity in an otherwise busy world.

So with all of this in mind, which Sound should you choose? Well, if money is no object then an overnighter in Doubtful, along with a day trip in Milford and a scenic over-flight of the National Park will give you the ultimate Fiordland experience. But if, like most backpackers, you’re conscious of that ever dwindling bank balance, then your more than likely going to be investing your hard earned cash into just one of these trips. Continue reading →

A winter “WWOOFing” next to Paradise: An unexpected Journey

October 21, 2015November 3, 2015 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / 10 Comments

Nestled on the fringe of the Northern shores of Lake Wakatipu is the tiny village of Kinloch. Home to just 8 residents, this remote idyllic location offers the perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle of Queenstown and for us a chance to save some serious dollar over the winter months by WWOOFing (Willing Workers on Organic Farms) and working at the beautiful Kinloch Lodge (YHA).

During the summer season Kinloch comes alive with trekkers, tourists and locals in search of culinary delights and a comfortable bed for the night en-route to one of New Zealand’s premiere walking routes. But with avalanche paths making popular ‘tramping’ tracks off limits to all those but the most experienced of Alpinists over the winter months; and plummeting winter temperatures keeping all but the hardiest of people away, our time at Kinloch offered a much, much quieter experience. Which in my opinion is exactly how this incredible setting is best enjoyed.

But for the majority of guests passing through, the idea that we had chosen to spend over two months without a car in a spot where we needed to cycle 9km to our post box, kayak 30 minutes to the nearest store or hitch a ride 70km drive to the nearest sizable town, made them instantly question our sanity before inevitably asking the question… “But don’t you get bored here??”

What I should have replied with was my Dads favourite line when I was growing up, which was ‘Only boring people get bored!’ But instead I’d just smile and shake my head. Because seriously, how could you ever get bored in a place that offers this…

A picture Perfect Scene

To reach the picture perfect shores of Kinloch you first need to take one of New Zealand’s most scenic drives, the Glenorchy Road to Paradise. Stretching 68 km, this river of tarmac dips and winds its way high above Wakatipu’s waters edge, offering breath-taking mountain Views around every turn and bend.

After leaving the lakeside behind, the road begins to briefly snake inland through rolling green farms to an area of natural beauty so iconic that its gnarled forests, towering snow-capped peaks and sprawling river valleys that it became the setting of much of the acclaimed Lord of The Rings series. But in terms of scenic beauty, this was only the start of things to come.

With Lake Wakatipu and the Humboldt & Richardson mountain ranges as the backdrop to our life in Kinloch, stepping outside away from the warmth of a roaring fire felt like stepping straight onto the strokes of an artistic masterpiece. Except this was no man-made scene. This was a living picture that was forever changing depending on a cauldron of factors which could create picture perfection even on the most unlikely of days.

But Kinloch’s beauty wasn’t confined to just the light of day. Sat all alone over 70kms from the bustling metropolis of Queenstown, Kinloch’s lack of light pollution gave the opportunity to spend crisp clear winter evenings in the steamy depths of a hilltop hot-tub, staring up at a blanket of twinkling stars and the mesmerising swirls of the Milky Way. A spot perfect for catching a glimpse of the illusive Southern Lights dancing across the night sky… if your lucky enough that is (we however were not – sleeping through two major solar storms!!)

A playground for adventure

Kinloch’s lakeside location and proximity to countless walking tracks, including one of the world’s top 10 trails, makes it the ultimate base for adventure. Whether we were exploring the surrounding areas on day walks, venturing out on multi day hikes, paddling our way across lakes to uninhabited islands, or running and cycling around woodland tracks and winding mountain roads, we were never short of something to do. Life at Kinloch offered the perfect opportunity to submerge ourselves in the great outdoors and reconnect to nature in the safe knowledge that a roaring log fire and plentiful meals would be the reward at the end of the day.

Work life Variety

With the hostel operating at a lower capacity over the winter months, meaning less beds to change and thankfully less toilet bowls to clean, the majority of our ‘wwoofing’ hours were put to use preparing the building and grounds for the upcoming busy summer season.

Not shy to getting my hands dirty or doing the odd bit of DIY, I opted for the jobs which kept me outdoors and active. From weeding, to clearing out gutters, chopping wood, tending to chickens, painting, collecting drift wood, cutting back meadows of lavender and gardening in the organic vegetable patch, I was never short of a task that was a world away from my previous working life as a Social Worker.

Danielle however, preferring the luring smell of freshly ground coffee beans and the comfort and warmth of a cosy café, opted where ever she could to make the 30 minute scenic drive to Kinloch’s sister business ‘The Trading Post’ café, in hopes of developing her barista skills and the art of pouring the perfect cup of coffee.

And a good bunch of people

As with most of our traveling adventures, it’s often been the people we’ve met along the way that have made our journeys truly memorable and this couldn’t have been truer for our time in Kinloch. With a notoriously quiet winter season and a growing blanket of icy cold darkness about the place, what could have felt more like an eternity in the isolated realms of Mordor or a date with a death eater instead was transformed into an inspiring experience thanks to the majority of people we had the pleasure to work alongside.

In the wwoofing team there was Chris, a Cumbrian mountain dweller who shares my slightly unnerving love for maps and all things outdoors, and who helped to develop our understanding of how to capture those perfect shots through a lens;

Nadia the blonde Beverian who made a mean hot chocolate and taught us to speak all kinds of German with a fridge and its contents as her aid – what more would you need to know?

Flo the long haired Frenchman who made late night feasting on crepes and homemade salted caramel popcorn a regular feature of wwoofing life and whose innate hatred for all things English couldn’t withstand our. witty English charm;

and more recently Michael, Chris and Laura who we had the pleasure of sharing our final nights at Kinloch with, righting the world over many cups of tea.

And then of cause there was the staff. Emma-Kate and Patrick, an exceptionally talented & creative couple perfectly suited and living proof that my work/ life ideology is more than possible. And finally Caro, an incredible woman who has defied the “norms” of society to literally brick by brick and plant by plant, independently built up her organic eco living dreams all around her.

Unfortunately we didn’t get a chance to get to know the owners of Kinloch as they were off jet setting on their own around the world adventure for the duration of our time there, but their hospitality and thanks on their return made for a perfect ending to the first chapter of our New Zealand adventure.

A taste of S.E Asia

August 9, 2015August 9, 2015 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / Leave a comment

After leaving Nepal we would travel to three different countries and hop between six different islands on what turned out to be an epic and eventful Asian adventure.

Batu Caves, KL

An adventure which took us from the culinary delights of the multicultural Kuala Lumpur, overland on a 7 hour train journey to the bright lights of Asia’s little red dot, Singapore. A western metropolis sticky with humidity, where smokey temples rub shoulders with soaring sky scrapers.

Sunset behind the Petronas towers, KL

Exploring the boutiques and eateries of Kampong Glam

Enjoying the ‘Wonder Full’ light and sound show at Marina Bay Sands, Singapore

Singapore Skyline by Night

After a whirlwind 24 hours, we left Singapore’s western ways behind, bypassed Indonesia’s sprawling concrete capital Jakarta and headed directly to Yoyakarta, the heart and cultural soul of Java. Here bearing shawls, we hung with locals and explored Yoga’s many historic sights, before travelling overland on a testing journey of bemos; buses, and trains to the moonscape of Mt. Bromo.

Borobudur, Java

Prambanan, Java

Phototime with the locals, Kauman, Java

A journey in which we would loose our clothes to a laundrette fire; find ourselves walking through the centre of an Islamic Extremist Demonstration; being thrown out of a taxi in the middle of nowhere; trying to stop what appeared to be the abduction of a woman; dodging a torrent of aggressive touts; and avoiding being forced off a bus by scammers. To say that this was our most testing traveling experience yet would be an understatement. But the kindness of locals and travellers we met along the way made it a more enjoyable one.

Nothing like a stroll around the rim of an active volcano to start the day, Mt. Broom, Java

Sunrise over the billowing Mt Bromo

Exhausted and a little broken we arrived into Bali, where we would spend the next two weeks taking advantage of some much needed R&R. We sipped cocktails and partied with drag queens in Seminyak; chilled in hammocks with friends while living like beach bums on the paradise that is the Gili islands; and finally explored the less visited palm fringed beaches on the developing island of Lombok. It was the break we had needed.

Gili T

Gili Air

But with S.E Asia’s wet season looming, there was no time to hang around. Keen to avoid yet another natural disaster, we decided to score our selves a couple Working Holiday visas and put our Asian adventure on hold for drier times. So in early June, we swopped the sweltering tropical heat of Indonesia for the sub zero temperatures of the picture perfect Land of the Long White Cloud- ANew Zealand.

And so began the next chapter.

Leaving Nepal: A sobering Journey

August 7, 2015 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / Leave a comment

The 7.9 earthquake that struck Nepal on the 25^th April brought our Himalayan adventure to an abrupt end. The idea of pushing ahead with our plans and trekking to EBC where so many had just lost their lives seemed like a tasteless option. Unable to offer the skills to help with the initial disaster relief effort, we were left wondering what to do for the best. But with constant tremors, predictions of earthquakes of a bigger magnitude, the threat of disease spreading and supplies running low, we reluctantly made the difficult decision to leave behind a crumbing Country which had captured our minds and stolen our hearts.

Abandoning the picturesque lakeside village of Pokhara, we set off on a four hour journey through winding lush green valleys to the devastation and chaos of Kathmandu. It was to be the most sobering journey of our lives.

Desperate locals taking to the roofs of buses to flee Kathmandu

Passing by villages that were now nothing more than a pile of rubble; houses which balanced preciously on their side like tumbling dominoes, and squadrons of soldiers bearing shovels, we realised how sheltered we had been in the largely unaffected area of Pokhara.

Arriving safely at Kathmandu Airport we had a long wait amongst the hordes of fleeing tourists and Government Officials until our delayed flight would leave the ground. Sat on the floor, I thought over what I had just seen and our privileged decision to leave. I felt sick to the stomach. These beautiful people had lost everything. Their homes, their livelihoods, their loved ones. Everything! And we were deserting them in their hour of need to look after ourselves. I had never felt more selfish.

Later that evening, teary eyed and exhausted we flew out of Nepal just ten days after the biggest quake to hit the Himalayas in over 80 years.

And so began the next chapter of our travelling adventure.

The Annapurna Circuit: An Epic Himalayan Adventure

June 23, 2015June 28, 2015 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / 5 Comments

Hailed as one of the most spectacular long distance walks in the world, The Annapurna circuit had a lot to live up to. But, our 130 odd mile horseshoe trek through Nepal’s central Himalaya region more than exceeded any of our expectations.

This popular trail may lack the lavish huts and sense of isolated wilderness offered by other treks around the world, it may not even have the best scenery; but what it does offer is the opportunity to explore an ever changing landscape, stand in the shadows of four of the world’s highest snow-capped peaks, and to experience the kindness and cultures of the communities who, despite adversity, inhabit these unforgiving lands.

The first 5 days of our 18 day journey from Besisahar to Nayapul were spent trekking towards the source of the mountain river Marshyangdi. We crossed wooden swing bridges which swayed precariously over the sapphire rapids below; walked beneath cascading waterfalls; meandered through rice paddies carved into the climbing countryside; scaled sweet smelling rhododendron forests; and were left astonished by the ingenuity of the farming villages we called home each night. And too be honest, it all felt a little too easy. It was nothing like the white washed Himalayas which I had seen on TV and the views although beautiful, could easily have been rivalled by some of our favourite spots in England’s Lake District.

But on day six as we left the village of Chame at an altitude of 2630m and began to ascend further towards the climax of our journey, the infamous Thorong-la Pass, the terrain began to drastically change. Spindrift and threatening clouds now loomed above a skyline dominated by grey and white soaring walls of intimidating rock. Vultures circled overhead, preying on the frozen remains of Yaks which had been taken by the harsh alpine conditions. Boulders crashed and tumbled down the fell-side around us, whilst the thunderous noise of distant avalanches echoed in our ears. It was a stark contrast from the blue skies and lush green vegetation of the valleys and foot hills below. And with every step we took, we became all too aware of each shortening intake of breath in the thinning ar. It was as if the mountains had sent a glaring reminder of the hostile environment which we had chosen to explore, and of how dispensable and insignificant we are. We were at the full mercy of the greatest mountain range on the planet, and it had decided to send a blizzard our way.

Likened to that which killed over 40 trekkers in October 2014, the snow fall caused what seemed to be a panic amongst Sherpa’s in Menang village, with many groups, guides and porters abandoning their treks and heading downhill to the safety of the valleys below. But determined to make the pass, others like ourselves decided to wait out the storm in the sub- zero temperatures of the wafer-thin walled tea houses in hope of a break in the weather, and after just two days we were blessed with just that.

The track now covered in thick snow, compacted by an endless stream of trekkers had become treacherous under foot. For those struggling with altitude sickness like Danielle, each movement became a slow and painful slog to the fluttering prayer flags of Thorong- La Pass.

To avoid high winds and melting snow, the final ascent was made in the dead of the night. Guided by only the flickering light of our head torches, we pushed on uphill through a landscape now undistinguishable and eerily quiet.

But as dawn broke, the darkness faded to reveal a 360 degree view of soaring Himalayan peaks. Stood at 5416m on a blanket of glistening snow, we were rendered speechless. Nothing compared to the scale and beauty of this picture perfect scene. Not skydiving over Franz Josef glacier; not an aerial view of the Great Barrier Reef; not swimming with Whale Sharks. Nothing could ever compare to this. It was nature at it most beautiful and it was truly breath taking.

The decent from Throng La was a long and arduous five hours of slipping and sliding down hill, but for us the adventure was far from over. Continuing on from Muktinath where the majority of trekkers end their Annapurna experience, the trail led us through Nepal’s arid semi desert land where we searched the river banks for ancient fossils; plentiful apple orchids where we feasted on pie; and sweat inducing sub-tropical rain forests where we heard the calls of the Cuckoo bird, before eventually leading us to our penultimate destination of Poon Hill.

Here, after a 4am climb, we stood sharing a cup of steaming hot lemon, ginger and Honey tea as we watched the rising sun’s rays one by one touch the snow-capped peaks of the entire Annapurna range, creating a fiery orange Alpine glow across the horizon.

A majestic ending to a perfect Himalayan adventure.

10 signs you’ve made the leap from Novice Backpacker to practically a local in Asia

June 4, 2015June 5, 2015 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / 1 Comment

Arriving into Asia from a shiny, organised Western country which is paranoid about the spreading of disease can cause a bit of a culture shock for the average backpacker. The stenches of raw sewerage; the habitual spitting of phlegm; the fly-ridden “butcher” stalls laid out across the dirt streets. It can almost be too much to bare. But despite the initial feelings of skin crawling disgust, it can be surprising how quickly we become desensitized to our new surroundings. Here are ten tell-tale signs you will notice on your leap from novice backpacker to practically a local in Asia.

1. Given the choice between a drop toilet and the western-style equivalent, it’s a deep squat every time! You’ve gotten over the nose burning, eye watering smells that accompany that shallow hole in the floor maskerading as a W/C, and the fact that your more than likely going to be stairing at a bucket of someone else’s shitty tissues while you do your business. Instead you find comfort in the fact that you know what your getting. There’s no nasty’s hiding under a toilet seat and no dirty toilet water waiting to squirt out at you from an oddly plumbed ‘wanabe’ western device. It’s simple and effective! In fact you’re thinking “maybe I should get one of these installed when I eventually go home… if I ever go home?”

2. Curry for breakfast no longer seems like a crime. There’s no more raised eyebrows or nudges to friends as you pass by locals using their hand to shovel what should be a Saturday night takeaway into their mouths at 6 o’clock in the morning. Instead you’re now one of the first in the local Warung to be tucking into that mornings spicy delights and you cant get enough of it!!

When you walk into this bathroom and say “ahh this is so nice” without a hint of sarcasm… you know you’ve stayed in some rough ass places!!

3. Cold showers, stained bed sheets, dirty cutlery and electricity for only 6 out of the 24 hours in a day are now expected as standard. You’ve stopped asking for things to be fixed or changed and realised there’s no need to be such a princess about it. You braved it and lived to tell the tale.

4. You’ve stopped walking past those grubby looking local haunts and into the aesthetically pleasing western style bars that remind you of home. You’ve even stopped religiously dousing your hands in anti-bac before every feed. You’ve accepted the fact that your 700 times more likely to get the shits over here no matter where you eat, so you might as well pay a fraction of the price for that lovely little extra.

5. Gone are the days of eating with knives and forks. Instead you are happy to ‘do as the locals do’ and tuck straight into your Dal Bhat or Tahli with your right hand. Your fingers drip with a concoction of lentil soup, potato curry and rice and it no longer feels like a novelty. Your back to basics and it’s like you never eaten any other way.

6. Materialistic items and vanity seem ever less important. Straighteners and hairdryers lie untouched at the bottom of your backpack. In fact you’re not even sure when it was that you last saw your reflection in a mirror. Your hairs unkempt, your feet are always dirty and you barely ever wash your clothes, but you couldn’t care less. You’re just comfortable being you.

Navigating through onlookers after a bus had plummeted over a cliff edge, Nepal

7. You no longer sit toes curled and knuckles white as your bemo driver weaves in and out of oncoming traffic, around blind cliff-edge corners on the wrong side of the road. Instead, you sit back and enjoy the views, safe in the knowledge that if the overcrowded, seatbelt-less tin can you are riding does crash or plummet down a hill side, you’ve not got a chance in hell, but at least you’ve had a good time.

8. You finally understand why people visiting England from Aisa get such a bad reputation for their crazy road crossing tactics! Pavements rarely exist but where they do, you quickly learn you’re much less likely going to injure yourself walking alongside the unruly traffic than you are constantly dodging the holes, boulders and wires which bed the pavement floors. You also quickly learn that the only way to cross that road in front of you is to take a deep breath and step out into the stream of oncoming verhicles and hope for the very best.

9. You no longer reach for your camera at the sight of a chewing cow sprawled on a dusty track surrounded by honking mopeds and tuktuks in the middle of a city. Its just your average Holy Cow in a street. No biggie.

10. You have finally learnt to sleep through the deafening sound of 1000 cockerels, 4am prayer calls and the chorus of howls from the entity of the worlds stray dogs… all of which seem to take place every morning, in sync, right outside your bedroom door

An earthquake in Nepal: A shaky start to our Backpacking Adventure

April 26, 2015April 27, 2015 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / 4 Comments

Yesterday began just like any other day. Sat crossed legged on the straw floor of our bamboo garden hut, we chatted trivially over peanut butter and banana sandwiches about our plans for the day, before waking ourselves up in a spine chilling icy cold shower. It was the average morning of a budget conscious backpacker in Nepal.

Leaving Claire behind to relax in the guesthouse, Danielle and I headed into the main town under a threatening sky, to rummage through the delights of Pokhara’s colourful lakeside stalls.

Inside a dark and dusty shop, stacked high with yak furs and “cashmere” shawls, we stood bartering with a Nepalese man in broken English, a shopping ritual we have quickly become accustomed to. Suddenly the lights in the store flickered on and off, plunging us almost into darkness, before a stampede like rumbling echoed through the open door. Pushing past us mid-sentence without saying a word, the formerly sale-eager owner frantically ran from the shop leaving us and his livelihood behind.

At that moment the street outside burst into a chorus of screams and shrieks from people and animals alike. Locals and tourists ran in all directions eventually forming a sea of bodies down the centre of the road. For a second I stood confused and then as the ground began to tremor beneath my feet, it hit me, this was an earthquake. It was as if my mind had been kicked into survival mode, scanning for falling debris, ground cracks, electric wires, and injured people, I grabbed Danielle by the arm and dragged us into the chaos that now swept the previously relaxed streets of Pokhara. Diving between the masses, we quickly made our way into the crowds and tried to dodge the tangled streams of power lines which now swung wildly over our heads. Our hearts pounding in our chests, we stood huddled together helplessly watching as chaos unfolded around us. It was as if time had stopped. Windows rattled violently in their already crooked wooden frames. Buildings and concrete structures swayed and spewed out bricks onto bystanders below. The unsecured contents of bottle shops tumbled and smashed creating a river of red across the paved walk ways. And then the quake hit its climax. As if standing on the rolling waves of a stormy sea, we were thrown uncontrollably from side to side. The floor visibly shifting in either direction. Random travellers gripped onto us for safety, their faces white with fear.

After what felt like an eternity, the chilling shaking began to ease. Racing back along the main street towards our quaint little guest house where we had left Claire earlier that morning, we passed local men brought to their knees, crying, unable to breathe. Families flocked around women who had passed out, unable to cope with the terror. Groups of hysterical travellers gathered together looking around dazed and in shock. It was a scene I have watched ten times over from the safety of my home in England. But this time it felt real. We were actually amongst it.

Arriving at the guesthouse we were pleased to find Claire and the Nepalese family we are staying with unharmed by the morning’s events. Cut off from TVs; internet and the English language, we sat on a derelict field through the aftershocks with fellow travellers, excitedly sharing stories, completely unaware of the scale of devastation and loss of life that had occurred around us.

Soon after the ground settled, we headed to a Thrakali kitchen in search of Dal Bhat and watched locals glued to hand held radios, but unable to understand the content or ask questions, it was from a local shop keeper that we learnt the true devastation of the quake.

A stomach turning realisation swept over us. This wasn’t a cool or fun experience anymore. This was a serious disaster. People had lost their lives. And we were truly lucky to still be here.

Hours passed before we were able to make contact with friends, family or the outside world. But eventually one by one as Wi-Fi connections were restored, the news began to filter in through the desperate calls and messages of loved ones. ‘7.9 on the Richter scale’. ‘The biggest quake the Himalayas have experience in over 80 years’. ‘Over 1000 dead, many of whom were tourists.’ ‘Avalanches and ice falls have flattened Everest Base camp’.

We were left in total shock. Guilty for feeling thankful that we were safe and well when so many others had lost their lives, and bemused by how a couple of seemingly unimportant, split-second decisions that we had made in the lead up to the quake had been the difference between me writing this blog today or being one of those unfortunate enough to be in the Everest region or Kathmandu at this horrific time.

It’s now just over 24 hours since the first earthquake hit Nepal and the death count continues to rise. We were awakened by a couple more quakes in the early hours followed by a series of tremors, in fact we’ve just had another fairly big one as I write this now. But other than reported road blocks and cut-off water supplies, Pokhara feels unharmed and relatively safe. So for the time being, despite wanting to help with the humanitarian aid in Kathmandu, this is where we will stay.

Our thoughts and prayers go out to all of those who have lost their lives or loved ones in this saddening disaster, to those selflessly risking their own lives to help others, and hoping for the safe return of all those who are lost xxx