A winter “WWOOFing” next to Paradise: An unexpected Journey

October 21, 2015November 3, 2015 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / 10 Comments

Nestled on the fringe of the Northern shores of Lake Wakatipu is the tiny village of Kinloch. Home to just 8 residents, this remote idyllic location offers the perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle of Queenstown and for us a chance to save some serious dollar over the winter months by WWOOFing (Willing Workers on Organic Farms) and working at the beautiful Kinloch Lodge (YHA).

During the summer season Kinloch comes alive with trekkers, tourists and locals in search of culinary delights and a comfortable bed for the night en-route to one of New Zealand’s premiere walking routes. But with avalanche paths making popular ‘tramping’ tracks off limits to all those but the most experienced of Alpinists over the winter months; and plummeting winter temperatures keeping all but the hardiest of people away, our time at Kinloch offered a much, much quieter experience. Which in my opinion is exactly how this incredible setting is best enjoyed.

But for the majority of guests passing through, the idea that we had chosen to spend over two months without a car in a spot where we needed to cycle 9km to our post box, kayak 30 minutes to the nearest store or hitch a ride 70km drive to the nearest sizable town, made them instantly question our sanity before inevitably asking the question… “But don’t you get bored here??”

What I should have replied with was my Dads favourite line when I was growing up, which was ‘Only boring people get bored!’ But instead I’d just smile and shake my head. Because seriously, how could you ever get bored in a place that offers this…

A picture Perfect Scene

To reach the picture perfect shores of Kinloch you first need to take one of New Zealand’s most scenic drives, the Glenorchy Road to Paradise. Stretching 68 km, this river of tarmac dips and winds its way high above Wakatipu’s waters edge, offering breath-taking mountain Views around every turn and bend.

After leaving the lakeside behind, the road begins to briefly snake inland through rolling green farms to an area of natural beauty so iconic that its gnarled forests, towering snow-capped peaks and sprawling river valleys that it became the setting of much of the acclaimed Lord of The Rings series. But in terms of scenic beauty, this was only the start of things to come.

With Lake Wakatipu and the Humboldt & Richardson mountain ranges as the backdrop to our life in Kinloch, stepping outside away from the warmth of a roaring fire felt like stepping straight onto the strokes of an artistic masterpiece. Except this was no man-made scene. This was a living picture that was forever changing depending on a cauldron of factors which could create picture perfection even on the most unlikely of days.

But Kinloch’s beauty wasn’t confined to just the light of day. Sat all alone over 70kms from the bustling metropolis of Queenstown, Kinloch’s lack of light pollution gave the opportunity to spend crisp clear winter evenings in the steamy depths of a hilltop hot-tub, staring up at a blanket of twinkling stars and the mesmerising swirls of the Milky Way. A spot perfect for catching a glimpse of the illusive Southern Lights dancing across the night sky… if your lucky enough that is (we however were not – sleeping through two major solar storms!!)

A playground for adventure

Kinloch’s lakeside location and proximity to countless walking tracks, including one of the world’s top 10 trails, makes it the ultimate base for adventure. Whether we were exploring the surrounding areas on day walks, venturing out on multi day hikes, paddling our way across lakes to uninhabited islands, or running and cycling around woodland tracks and winding mountain roads, we were never short of something to do. Life at Kinloch offered the perfect opportunity to submerge ourselves in the great outdoors and reconnect to nature in the safe knowledge that a roaring log fire and plentiful meals would be the reward at the end of the day.

Work life Variety

With the hostel operating at a lower capacity over the winter months, meaning less beds to change and thankfully less toilet bowls to clean, the majority of our ‘wwoofing’ hours were put to use preparing the building and grounds for the upcoming busy summer season.

Not shy to getting my hands dirty or doing the odd bit of DIY, I opted for the jobs which kept me outdoors and active. From weeding, to clearing out gutters, chopping wood, tending to chickens, painting, collecting drift wood, cutting back meadows of lavender and gardening in the organic vegetable patch, I was never short of a task that was a world away from my previous working life as a Social Worker.

Danielle however, preferring the luring smell of freshly ground coffee beans and the comfort and warmth of a cosy café, opted where ever she could to make the 30 minute scenic drive to Kinloch’s sister business ‘The Trading Post’ café, in hopes of developing her barista skills and the art of pouring the perfect cup of coffee.

And a good bunch of people

As with most of our traveling adventures, it’s often been the people we’ve met along the way that have made our journeys truly memorable and this couldn’t have been truer for our time in Kinloch. With a notoriously quiet winter season and a growing blanket of icy cold darkness about the place, what could have felt more like an eternity in the isolated realms of Mordor or a date with a death eater instead was transformed into an inspiring experience thanks to the majority of people we had the pleasure to work alongside.

In the wwoofing team there was Chris, a Cumbrian mountain dweller who shares my slightly unnerving love for maps and all things outdoors, and who helped to develop our understanding of how to capture those perfect shots through a lens;

Nadia the blonde Beverian who made a mean hot chocolate and taught us to speak all kinds of German with a fridge and its contents as her aid – what more would you need to know?

Flo the long haired Frenchman who made late night feasting on crepes and homemade salted caramel popcorn a regular feature of wwoofing life and whose innate hatred for all things English couldn’t withstand our. witty English charm;

and more recently Michael, Chris and Laura who we had the pleasure of sharing our final nights at Kinloch with, righting the world over many cups of tea.

And then of cause there was the staff. Emma-Kate and Patrick, an exceptionally talented & creative couple perfectly suited and living proof that my work/ life ideology is more than possible. And finally Caro, an incredible woman who has defied the “norms” of society to literally brick by brick and plant by plant, independently built up her organic eco living dreams all around her.

Unfortunately we didn’t get a chance to get to know the owners of Kinloch as they were off jet setting on their own around the world adventure for the duration of our time there, but their hospitality and thanks on their return made for a perfect ending to the first chapter of our New Zealand adventure.

A taste of S.E Asia

August 9, 2015August 9, 2015 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / Leave a comment

After leaving Nepal we would travel to three different countries and hop between six different islands on what turned out to be an epic and eventful Asian adventure.

Batu Caves, KL

An adventure which took us from the culinary delights of the multicultural Kuala Lumpur, overland on a 7 hour train journey to the bright lights of Asia’s little red dot, Singapore. A western metropolis sticky with humidity, where smokey temples rub shoulders with soaring sky scrapers.

Sunset behind the Petronas towers, KL

Exploring the boutiques and eateries of Kampong Glam

Enjoying the ‘Wonder Full’ light and sound show at Marina Bay Sands, Singapore

Singapore Skyline by Night

After a whirlwind 24 hours, we left Singapore’s western ways behind, bypassed Indonesia’s sprawling concrete capital Jakarta and headed directly to Yoyakarta, the heart and cultural soul of Java. Here bearing shawls, we hung with locals and explored Yoga’s many historic sights, before travelling overland on a testing journey of bemos; buses, and trains to the moonscape of Mt. Bromo.

Borobudur, Java

Prambanan, Java

Phototime with the locals, Kauman, Java

A journey in which we would loose our clothes to a laundrette fire; find ourselves walking through the centre of an Islamic Extremist Demonstration; being thrown out of a taxi in the middle of nowhere; trying to stop what appeared to be the abduction of a woman; dodging a torrent of aggressive touts; and avoiding being forced off a bus by scammers. To say that this was our most testing traveling experience yet would be an understatement. But the kindness of locals and travellers we met along the way made it a more enjoyable one.

Nothing like a stroll around the rim of an active volcano to start the day, Mt. Broom, Java

Sunrise over the billowing Mt Bromo

Exhausted and a little broken we arrived into Bali, where we would spend the next two weeks taking advantage of some much needed R&R. We sipped cocktails and partied with drag queens in Seminyak; chilled in hammocks with friends while living like beach bums on the paradise that is the Gili islands; and finally explored the less visited palm fringed beaches on the developing island of Lombok. It was the break we had needed.

Gili T

Gili Air

But with S.E Asia’s wet season looming, there was no time to hang around. Keen to avoid yet another natural disaster, we decided to score our selves a couple Working Holiday visas and put our Asian adventure on hold for drier times. So in early June, we swopped the sweltering tropical heat of Indonesia for the sub zero temperatures of the picture perfect Land of the Long White Cloud- ANew Zealand.

And so began the next chapter.

Leaving Nepal: A sobering Journey

August 7, 2015 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / Leave a comment

The 7.9 earthquake that struck Nepal on the 25^th April brought our Himalayan adventure to an abrupt end. The idea of pushing ahead with our plans and trekking to EBC where so many had just lost their lives seemed like a tasteless option. Unable to offer the skills to help with the initial disaster relief effort, we were left wondering what to do for the best. But with constant tremors, predictions of earthquakes of a bigger magnitude, the threat of disease spreading and supplies running low, we reluctantly made the difficult decision to leave behind a crumbing Country which had captured our minds and stolen our hearts.

Abandoning the picturesque lakeside village of Pokhara, we set off on a four hour journey through winding lush green valleys to the devastation and chaos of Kathmandu. It was to be the most sobering journey of our lives.

Desperate locals taking to the roofs of buses to flee Kathmandu

Passing by villages that were now nothing more than a pile of rubble; houses which balanced preciously on their side like tumbling dominoes, and squadrons of soldiers bearing shovels, we realised how sheltered we had been in the largely unaffected area of Pokhara.

Arriving safely at Kathmandu Airport we had a long wait amongst the hordes of fleeing tourists and Government Officials until our delayed flight would leave the ground. Sat on the floor, I thought over what I had just seen and our privileged decision to leave. I felt sick to the stomach. These beautiful people had lost everything. Their homes, their livelihoods, their loved ones. Everything! And we were deserting them in their hour of need to look after ourselves. I had never felt more selfish.

Later that evening, teary eyed and exhausted we flew out of Nepal just ten days after the biggest quake to hit the Himalayas in over 80 years.

And so began the next chapter of our travelling adventure.

The Annapurna Circuit: An Epic Himalayan Adventure

June 23, 2015June 28, 2015 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / 5 Comments

Hailed as one of the most spectacular long distance walks in the world, The Annapurna circuit had a lot to live up to. But, our 130 odd mile horseshoe trek through Nepal’s central Himalaya region more than exceeded any of our expectations.

This popular trail may lack the lavish huts and sense of isolated wilderness offered by other treks around the world, it may not even have the best scenery; but what it does offer is the opportunity to explore an ever changing landscape, stand in the shadows of four of the world’s highest snow-capped peaks, and to experience the kindness and cultures of the communities who, despite adversity, inhabit these unforgiving lands.

The first 5 days of our 18 day journey from Besisahar to Nayapul were spent trekking towards the source of the mountain river Marshyangdi. We crossed wooden swing bridges which swayed precariously over the sapphire rapids below; walked beneath cascading waterfalls; meandered through rice paddies carved into the climbing countryside; scaled sweet smelling rhododendron forests; and were left astonished by the ingenuity of the farming villages we called home each night. And too be honest, it all felt a little too easy. It was nothing like the white washed Himalayas which I had seen on TV and the views although beautiful, could easily have been rivalled by some of our favourite spots in England’s Lake District.

But on day six as we left the village of Chame at an altitude of 2630m and began to ascend further towards the climax of our journey, the infamous Thorong-la Pass, the terrain began to drastically change. Spindrift and threatening clouds now loomed above a skyline dominated by grey and white soaring walls of intimidating rock. Vultures circled overhead, preying on the frozen remains of Yaks which had been taken by the harsh alpine conditions. Boulders crashed and tumbled down the fell-side around us, whilst the thunderous noise of distant avalanches echoed in our ears. It was a stark contrast from the blue skies and lush green vegetation of the valleys and foot hills below. And with every step we took, we became all too aware of each shortening intake of breath in the thinning ar. It was as if the mountains had sent a glaring reminder of the hostile environment which we had chosen to explore, and of how dispensable and insignificant we are. We were at the full mercy of the greatest mountain range on the planet, and it had decided to send a blizzard our way.

Likened to that which killed over 40 trekkers in October 2014, the snow fall caused what seemed to be a panic amongst Sherpa’s in Menang village, with many groups, guides and porters abandoning their treks and heading downhill to the safety of the valleys below. But determined to make the pass, others like ourselves decided to wait out the storm in the sub- zero temperatures of the wafer-thin walled tea houses in hope of a break in the weather, and after just two days we were blessed with just that.

The track now covered in thick snow, compacted by an endless stream of trekkers had become treacherous under foot. For those struggling with altitude sickness like Danielle, each movement became a slow and painful slog to the fluttering prayer flags of Thorong- La Pass.

To avoid high winds and melting snow, the final ascent was made in the dead of the night. Guided by only the flickering light of our head torches, we pushed on uphill through a landscape now undistinguishable and eerily quiet.

But as dawn broke, the darkness faded to reveal a 360 degree view of soaring Himalayan peaks. Stood at 5416m on a blanket of glistening snow, we were rendered speechless. Nothing compared to the scale and beauty of this picture perfect scene. Not skydiving over Franz Josef glacier; not an aerial view of the Great Barrier Reef; not swimming with Whale Sharks. Nothing could ever compare to this. It was nature at it most beautiful and it was truly breath taking.

The decent from Throng La was a long and arduous five hours of slipping and sliding down hill, but for us the adventure was far from over. Continuing on from Muktinath where the majority of trekkers end their Annapurna experience, the trail led us through Nepal’s arid semi desert land where we searched the river banks for ancient fossils; plentiful apple orchids where we feasted on pie; and sweat inducing sub-tropical rain forests where we heard the calls of the Cuckoo bird, before eventually leading us to our penultimate destination of Poon Hill.

Here, after a 4am climb, we stood sharing a cup of steaming hot lemon, ginger and Honey tea as we watched the rising sun’s rays one by one touch the snow-capped peaks of the entire Annapurna range, creating a fiery orange Alpine glow across the horizon.

A majestic ending to a perfect Himalayan adventure.

10 signs you’ve made the leap from Novice Backpacker to practically a local in Asia

June 4, 2015June 5, 2015 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / 1 Comment

Arriving into Asia from a shiny, organised Western country which is paranoid about the spreading of disease can cause a bit of a culture shock for the average backpacker. The stenches of raw sewerage; the habitual spitting of phlegm; the fly-ridden “butcher” stalls laid out across the dirt streets. It can almost be too much to bare. But despite the initial feelings of skin crawling disgust, it can be surprising how quickly we become desensitized to our new surroundings. Here are ten tell-tale signs you will notice on your leap from novice backpacker to practically a local in Asia.

1. Given the choice between a drop toilet and the western-style equivalent, it’s a deep squat every time! You’ve gotten over the nose burning, eye watering smells that accompany that shallow hole in the floor maskerading as a W/C, and the fact that your more than likely going to be stairing at a bucket of someone else’s shitty tissues while you do your business. Instead you find comfort in the fact that you know what your getting. There’s no nasty’s hiding under a toilet seat and no dirty toilet water waiting to squirt out at you from an oddly plumbed ‘wanabe’ western device. It’s simple and effective! In fact you’re thinking “maybe I should get one of these installed when I eventually go home… if I ever go home?”

2. Curry for breakfast no longer seems like a crime. There’s no more raised eyebrows or nudges to friends as you pass by locals using their hand to shovel what should be a Saturday night takeaway into their mouths at 6 o’clock in the morning. Instead you’re now one of the first in the local Warung to be tucking into that mornings spicy delights and you cant get enough of it!!

When you walk into this bathroom and say “ahh this is so nice” without a hint of sarcasm… you know you’ve stayed in some rough ass places!!

3. Cold showers, stained bed sheets, dirty cutlery and electricity for only 6 out of the 24 hours in a day are now expected as standard. You’ve stopped asking for things to be fixed or changed and realised there’s no need to be such a princess about it. You braved it and lived to tell the tale.

4. You’ve stopped walking past those grubby looking local haunts and into the aesthetically pleasing western style bars that remind you of home. You’ve even stopped religiously dousing your hands in anti-bac before every feed. You’ve accepted the fact that your 700 times more likely to get the shits over here no matter where you eat, so you might as well pay a fraction of the price for that lovely little extra.

5. Gone are the days of eating with knives and forks. Instead you are happy to ‘do as the locals do’ and tuck straight into your Dal Bhat or Tahli with your right hand. Your fingers drip with a concoction of lentil soup, potato curry and rice and it no longer feels like a novelty. Your back to basics and it’s like you never eaten any other way.

6. Materialistic items and vanity seem ever less important. Straighteners and hairdryers lie untouched at the bottom of your backpack. In fact you’re not even sure when it was that you last saw your reflection in a mirror. Your hairs unkempt, your feet are always dirty and you barely ever wash your clothes, but you couldn’t care less. You’re just comfortable being you.

Navigating through onlookers after a bus had plummeted over a cliff edge, Nepal

7. You no longer sit toes curled and knuckles white as your bemo driver weaves in and out of oncoming traffic, around blind cliff-edge corners on the wrong side of the road. Instead, you sit back and enjoy the views, safe in the knowledge that if the overcrowded, seatbelt-less tin can you are riding does crash or plummet down a hill side, you’ve not got a chance in hell, but at least you’ve had a good time.

8. You finally understand why people visiting England from Aisa get such a bad reputation for their crazy road crossing tactics! Pavements rarely exist but where they do, you quickly learn you’re much less likely going to injure yourself walking alongside the unruly traffic than you are constantly dodging the holes, boulders and wires which bed the pavement floors. You also quickly learn that the only way to cross that road in front of you is to take a deep breath and step out into the stream of oncoming verhicles and hope for the very best.

9. You no longer reach for your camera at the sight of a chewing cow sprawled on a dusty track surrounded by honking mopeds and tuktuks in the middle of a city. Its just your average Holy Cow in a street. No biggie.

10. You have finally learnt to sleep through the deafening sound of 1000 cockerels, 4am prayer calls and the chorus of howls from the entity of the worlds stray dogs… all of which seem to take place every morning, in sync, right outside your bedroom door

An earthquake in Nepal: A shaky start to our Backpacking Adventure

April 26, 2015April 27, 2015 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / 4 Comments

Yesterday began just like any other day. Sat crossed legged on the straw floor of our bamboo garden hut, we chatted trivially over peanut butter and banana sandwiches about our plans for the day, before waking ourselves up in a spine chilling icy cold shower. It was the average morning of a budget conscious backpacker in Nepal.

Leaving Claire behind to relax in the guesthouse, Danielle and I headed into the main town under a threatening sky, to rummage through the delights of Pokhara’s colourful lakeside stalls.

Inside a dark and dusty shop, stacked high with yak furs and “cashmere” shawls, we stood bartering with a Nepalese man in broken English, a shopping ritual we have quickly become accustomed to. Suddenly the lights in the store flickered on and off, plunging us almost into darkness, before a stampede like rumbling echoed through the open door. Pushing past us mid-sentence without saying a word, the formerly sale-eager owner frantically ran from the shop leaving us and his livelihood behind.

At that moment the street outside burst into a chorus of screams and shrieks from people and animals alike. Locals and tourists ran in all directions eventually forming a sea of bodies down the centre of the road. For a second I stood confused and then as the ground began to tremor beneath my feet, it hit me, this was an earthquake. It was as if my mind had been kicked into survival mode, scanning for falling debris, ground cracks, electric wires, and injured people, I grabbed Danielle by the arm and dragged us into the chaos that now swept the previously relaxed streets of Pokhara. Diving between the masses, we quickly made our way into the crowds and tried to dodge the tangled streams of power lines which now swung wildly over our heads. Our hearts pounding in our chests, we stood huddled together helplessly watching as chaos unfolded around us. It was as if time had stopped. Windows rattled violently in their already crooked wooden frames. Buildings and concrete structures swayed and spewed out bricks onto bystanders below. The unsecured contents of bottle shops tumbled and smashed creating a river of red across the paved walk ways. And then the quake hit its climax. As if standing on the rolling waves of a stormy sea, we were thrown uncontrollably from side to side. The floor visibly shifting in either direction. Random travellers gripped onto us for safety, their faces white with fear.

After what felt like an eternity, the chilling shaking began to ease. Racing back along the main street towards our quaint little guest house where we had left Claire earlier that morning, we passed local men brought to their knees, crying, unable to breathe. Families flocked around women who had passed out, unable to cope with the terror. Groups of hysterical travellers gathered together looking around dazed and in shock. It was a scene I have watched ten times over from the safety of my home in England. But this time it felt real. We were actually amongst it.

Arriving at the guesthouse we were pleased to find Claire and the Nepalese family we are staying with unharmed by the morning’s events. Cut off from TVs; internet and the English language, we sat on a derelict field through the aftershocks with fellow travellers, excitedly sharing stories, completely unaware of the scale of devastation and loss of life that had occurred around us.

Soon after the ground settled, we headed to a Thrakali kitchen in search of Dal Bhat and watched locals glued to hand held radios, but unable to understand the content or ask questions, it was from a local shop keeper that we learnt the true devastation of the quake.

A stomach turning realisation swept over us. This wasn’t a cool or fun experience anymore. This was a serious disaster. People had lost their lives. And we were truly lucky to still be here.

Hours passed before we were able to make contact with friends, family or the outside world. But eventually one by one as Wi-Fi connections were restored, the news began to filter in through the desperate calls and messages of loved ones. ‘7.9 on the Richter scale’. ‘The biggest quake the Himalayas have experience in over 80 years’. ‘Over 1000 dead, many of whom were tourists.’ ‘Avalanches and ice falls have flattened Everest Base camp’.

We were left in total shock. Guilty for feeling thankful that we were safe and well when so many others had lost their lives, and bemused by how a couple of seemingly unimportant, split-second decisions that we had made in the lead up to the quake had been the difference between me writing this blog today or being one of those unfortunate enough to be in the Everest region or Kathmandu at this horrific time.

It’s now just over 24 hours since the first earthquake hit Nepal and the death count continues to rise. We were awakened by a couple more quakes in the early hours followed by a series of tremors, in fact we’ve just had another fairly big one as I write this now. But other than reported road blocks and cut-off water supplies, Pokhara feels unharmed and relatively safe. So for the time being, despite wanting to help with the humanitarian aid in Kathmandu, this is where we will stay.

Our thoughts and prayers go out to all of those who have lost their lives or loved ones in this saddening disaster, to those selflessly risking their own lives to help others, and hoping for the safe return of all those who are lost xxx

Rome: A city frozen in time

April 2, 2015July 15, 2015 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / 3 Comments

Italy’s capital, Rome, is a place where modern city life has blended effortlessly with ancient ruins to create an infusion rich in culture and atmosphere. It is a city where even the most devout atheists and unenthused historians would find it difficult not to be captivated by the historical legacies, artistic grandeur and human genius that Rome showcases around almost every corner.

Home to structural splendours such as the Colosseum, St. Peters Basilica, Trevi Fountain, The Roman Forum and the Panthéon, to name just a few, Rome is a traveller’s reverie.

But a trip to Rome is as much about indulging in fine wine, food and coffee on sunlit piazzas, as it is about immersing yourself in its remarkable past. After all, ‘When in Rome’…. It would be rude not to.

So how do you cram over two millennia of history, art and culture into just a 3 day city break? Well, luckily Rome offers a lot on a small scale, making exploration both easy and affordable; but with so much to see and do, it helps to go prepared with an itinerary to get the most out of your journey to the eternal city.So here’s a few ideas to get you on your way…

Day One: There’s no better way to start a trip than with a showstopper, so todays all about the Roman Ruins. Now were not usually over keen on tourist hotspots, but standing within the arched walls of the grand Colosseum, the noise of excitable school groups and the constant flashing of cameras was quickly phased out, leaving just you. You, and the uproar of 80,000 barbarians, cheering and chanting, blood thirsty for the next pauper to be ripped limb from limb on centre stage. The practice of gladiator combats and killing for entertainment may be long gone in Rome, but the atmosphere generated by this impressive building, and the tales within, is still very much alive.

After circling the arena and taking in the ever changing perspectives that each level offers, take the short walk across to The Roman Forum and Palatine Hill, which are equally as fascinating in their own rights. Together the three sites make for a fantastic day in Rome.

Spend the remainder of your day, moseying around the streets of Rome and climb Parco Gianicolense for sunset, before heading to Travestere, a district famous for its cheap, authentic food. If you’re a Pizza lover check out ‘Carlo Menta’ for excellent slices at dirt cheap prices.

Day Two: Start today with a visit to Trevi Fountain and the Panthéon before taking a stroll above the river banks of the Tiber to Vatican City. If your feeling fit and have a head for heights (and small spaces), it’s well worth paying the €5 fee to scale the 551 steps to the top of St. Peters Dome.

Winding your way up the ever slanting and narrowing wooden staircase, you’ll pass through beautiful mosaic artworks and marvel at the scale and magnificence of the basilica before emerging outside for a 360 bird’s eye view of this beautiful city. Take the time to spot some of the great sights in the distance, as well as the gated, pristine Vatican City which lies below. As you leave these spectacular views behind and begin to descend yet another spiral staircase, why not stop In the Nun-run Holy shop to send a postcard from the smallest state in the world.

The final corridors and stairwells of the dome lead you down into St. Peters Basilica itself, an artistic masterpiece which will leave you astonished.

Take a long walk or catch the metro to spend the last hour of daylight at Pincio Hill (above Piazza del Popolo) watching the sunset over the city and St. Peters Basilica before making your way south through the park to emerge at the Spanish steps. Spend a while soaking up the atmosphere here before disappearing into the lights of the city in search of culinary delights.

Day Three: After 2 long days of sightseeing your feet will be screaming out for a much needed rest today, and what better way to relax than cycling through lush green countryside and crumbling ruins on one of the Romans greatest engineering feats! The ancient Appian Way, or Appia Antica as its known locally, lies just outside the city walls and tracks over 350 miles from Rome to Brindisi in the heel of Italy. It’s well preserved giant cobbles offers travellers the opportunity to escape the crowds of the city and really get a sense of stepping back in time to an era untouched by modernity. But beware if you stick to the road- you’re in for a bumpy ride!! For those who prefer to admire this piece of history from a more comfortable position, you can take advantage of dirt tracks which have been carved out for your convenience. riding appian way

Before peddling your way back in time, why not stop to explore a darker side to Rome and head deep underground into the network of caves, tunnels and tombs of the Christian Catacombs. Note- If you’re not keen on confined spaces, the dark or the dead, a tour around this place probably isn’t for you!

After you surface from below and have lost a couple of hours cruising on your bike, enjoy a late lunch in the garden oasis of the Appia Antica Caffe, before making your way back along the cobbles to catch the bus where todays adventure began at St. Sebastian Catacombs.

The logistics (Day 3): Take the metro to stop CIRCO MASSIOMO (near to the Colosseum). Cost approx. €1.50 each way from Termini. Walk outside the station to the bus stop on your left and take Bus 118 to Stop St. Sebastian. After visiting the Catacombs, take a pleasant 10/15 minute stroll along the cobbles to the Appia Antica Caffe where you can hire bikes for a good price. We paid € 9 each for 3 hours of rental. Bike hire is calculated per hour of rental and payment is made when you return you bikes to the café. One form of ID for one person in your group must be left with the café for the duration of your ride (http://www.appiaanticacaffe.it/new/index.php/en/bike-rental).

Take advantage of: Discounts: Under 25s can claim discount when purchasing the ticket which gets you into the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palestine Hill. ID must be shown proving age.

Watch out for: Pickpockets. Like most tourist hotspots around the world, Rome has many pickpockets operating within the Metro system and on the streets, particularly around the major sights. Be vigilant with your belongings and don’t be distracted by decoys such as that cute puppy “all on its own”.

Remember to:

Check the opening days/ times of the attractions you are visiting (many shut on alternate days) and arrive early to avoid long queues.
Purchase bus tickets from Tobacco shops before boarding a bus and be sure to buy return tickets if you’re heading out to Appia Antica!!
Always carry a bottle of water with you. The Mediterranean heat and lots of walking can be a killer!

Our Hostel Pick: Freedom Traveller – A cheap and cheerful hostel well situated in the centre of Rome, close to Termini Station. If its luxury you’re after then this place isn’t for you, but if you’re looking for a friendly, sociable atmosphere close to all the Must-See’s then this hostel will be perfect for any budget-conscious traveller! Take advantage of the free nibbles and wine in the evening, and continental breakfast in the morning!

Our month to travel: March/ April. The weather was cool enough to comfortably enjoy roaming the streets and seeing the sights for hours on end; but warm enough to warrant a refreshing pit stop at one of Rome’s many Gelaterias. The evening is generally a lot cooler at this time of year so be sure to pack a warm jacket. Note– Rome and particularly the Vatican City will become a major Tourist destination around the Easter period with millions flocking from around the world in hopes of watching the Easter Services. Avoid this holiday period if crowds aren’t for you.

England: Seeing a country through new eyes

March 31, 2015July 15, 2015 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / 4 Comments

England is a country steeped in culture and history which has scenery to rival some of the most beautiful spots on this planet. But as a young 20 something eager to escape this place I knew as home, I would often find myself sat in the coffee shops of Liverpool watching groups of wide eyed tourists shuffling one by one out of big red buses (maps and cameras in hand), and I couldn’t help but wonder…. Why? Why would all of these people consciously choose to travel thousands of miles across the world to come here? Out of all the destinations…all of the amazing things to see…why England!?

But the truth is, all of those tourists knew something I didn’t. I’d become blinded by ignorance and intolerance of my own country and had never stopped for a second to consider what lay waiting for me to discover right outside my own front door.

It wasn’t until sometime after I returned home from our first big Backpacking adventure, that I began to see England for all it really is and all it has to offer. Determined not to become entrapped by the constraints and routine of life back home, we were forced for the first time to make the most of what we had around us and it was truly beautiful.

In just a 10 minute cycle we could be sat on the promenade of Crosby beach watching the sun set over the statues of Anthony Gormley ‘Another Place’. To say it was as atmospheric as watching the sun disappear into the horizon over the red sand of Uluru would be a lie, but it still offered the opportunity to ‘lose yourself’ for a while in that moment.

In just a 2 hour train ride we could be amongst the hustle, bustle and grandeur of London Town for a long weekend packed full of delicious tastes; incredible architecture; amazing night life; and more culture than you could ever hope to find.

In just a 2 and a half hour car journey we could be breathlessly bagging peaks, kayaking on pristine waters, standing beneath tumbling waterfalls or steaming down muddy mountain bike trails, in what has become our favourite adventure playground- The picturesque Lake District.

In just a six hour car journey we could be ripping it up on the surf in Newquay, walking along sections of the beautiful South West Costal Path or aimlessly wondering around cobbled Cornish alleyways, admiring the weathered houses, their exteriors curiously decorated with sea shells.

And for those occasions when we had a little more time on our hands, there was plenty to challenge both the mind and body. The C2C cycle; National 3 Peaks Challenge; Yorkshire 3 Peaks Challenge; and the Cumbrian Way are just some of the longer distance physical adventures that travellers can embark on, which offer stunning scenery and a real sense of accomplishment at the end of it.

But there’s more to England than what you can see and do. England offers a feeling quite like nowhere else I’ve been. It’s in the cream teas; the fish and chips; the politeness of its people; the humour of the north; the charm of its villages; the crackling fires of its cosy country pubs; and the proudness of its castles. It’s that warm feeling I get, that I can’t quite find the words to describe, but it’s quintessentially English.

So what have I learnt from my new found England? I’ve learnt that travel isn’t just about heading overseas. It’s about taking the time to explore and appreciate what we have right in front of us. As Marcel Proust eloquently puts it: ‘The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes.’

For me, the beauty of England lies in its small stature. A country perfectly sized to travel around quickly and easily which offers something for everyone. A place that even the most well-travelled would struggle not to be impressed by. A place where the notorious wet and windy weather shouldn’t dampen your day or put you off visiting…. After all, as a wise person once said: “There’s no such thing as bad weather…just bad clothing”.

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