Ten Scenic Day hikes in New Zealand’s South Island that you shouldn’t miss

November 20, 2016November 29, 2016 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / Leave a comment

New Zealand is famed for its picturesque landscapes, soaring mountains, untouched wilderness and of cause it’s ‘Great Walks’. But if your don’t have the time, money, gear, or simply the will to trek day after day with a heavy pack on your back… why not instead get your boots out and stretch those legs of yours on one of New Zealand’s beautiful days walks? It would pretty much be a crime not to! So, in no particular order, here’s our top pick for the South Island….

1. Isthmus Peak (Wanaka)

Best For: Lake Vistas and all-round awesomeness

When it comes to day hikes in and around the Wanaka area, everyone seems to be all about Roys Peak. But for us, the lesser known Isthmus Peak is where it’s at. The trail, which begins near the head of Lake Hawea, just a short drive from the township of Wanaka, offers expansive views across Lake Hawea, Lake Wanaka and the Southern Alps. That’s double the punch of Mountains and Lake Vistas.

Incredibly, Isthamus Peak hasn’t hit the ‘backpacker’ radar yet in the same way that other peaks have- and that’s one of the things that we love so much about this trail.

Lake Hawea

Lake Wanaka

2. Ben Lomond Track (Queenstown)

Best For: An Ariel view of the Adventure Capital

Looming above the metropolis of Queenstown is Ben Lomond. A lofty peak with a well maintained and marked trail which offers a unique view of the adventure capital of the world. The trail begins with a steep uphill grunt through sweet smelling Pine forrest, before it opens out and continues to ascend through alpine tussuck and shrubs, to Ben Lomond Saddle at 1326 meters. The Saddle is a great vantage point of the sourrounding valleys, peaks and lakes. But for really spectacular panoramic views that will leave you lost for words, continue up a rough, steep and slightly more exposed trail to the mountain summit at 1748 meters. From here, your valiant uphill effort will be rewarded with some of the most stunning 360 degree scenery that any of New Zealand’s day walks have to offer. To the North, vast valleys and canyons cut through the landscape. To the South East is the infamous and striking, Remarkables Mountain Range. To the West the beautiful Moke Lake. And to the South across the vast blue waters of Lake Wakitupu, Walter and Cecil Peaks.It doesn’t get much better than this.

3. Gertrude Saddle (Fiordland)

Best For: Vast valleys and Sea to Summit views

Starting from an unnamed carpark on the eastern side of the Homer Tunnel is Gertrude Valley. This U shaped valley is an incredible example of Glacial carving and offers one of the most interesting and more challenging day walks in Fiordland National Park… if not the whole of the South Island.

The trail to the valley head will take you across bolder strewn river beds, through a small section of native forest and across alpine meadows, before reaching the dramatic vertical walls at the head of the valley. Here, the marked trail abruptly ends and is replaced by a rough, unmarked trail dotted with cairns. Climbing steeply, the faint trail cuts up to the left of the valley, traversing gushing waterfalls, crystal clear rock pools and the dark waters of the aptly named ‘Black Lake’. As the terrain steepens to a near vertical scramble, a number of fixed metal ropes provide a welcomed relief for those with less of a head for heights and only add to the adventure of this trail. The Saddle itself affords views down a densely forested valley, all the way to magnificent Milford Sound and Tasman Sea. An epic view for those lucky enough to land a day in Fiordand which isn’t shrouded in low lying cloud!

*Gertrude Saddle has challenging terrain and can become treacherous in bad weather conditions. It should only by attempted by those with suitable backcountry skills and experience.

4. Mt Campbell (Mavora Lakes)
Best For: Exposed ridge lines and escaping the crowds on off-trail adventures

If solitude and adventure is what you’re after, and you have the back country skills to match your enthusiasm, then Mt Campbell is a great option for an ‘off trail’ day walk. The summit, which sits at 1683 meters, provides spectacular views of the Livingstone Range and magical Mavora Lakes. In fact the landscape around Mavora is so strikingly beautiful that it was used as a number of filming locations for Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings series.

Expect a challenge with this one. You’ll find yourself bushbashing through dense forrest, being sliced and shredded by vicious tussock grassland, and then precariously scrambling your way across narrow ridgelines. For me, this is what being in the Mountains is all about.

5. Roy’s Peak Track (Wanaka)

Best For: Stunning Sunrise’s

If you’ve been around New Zealand for a while, then there’s a good chance that your Insta feed will have been clogged up with images of backpackers posing for selfies and jumping into the air starfish style on the popolur Roy’s Peak track. And its pretty easy to see why. The ridgeline that leads down from Roy’s peak to the vast waters of Lake Wanaka and its many picturesque islands, makes for an incredibly photogenic image that will keep you wanting to go back for more.

But for us, the down side to the beauty, relative ease and accessibility of this peak, is the big numbers of hikers it attracts. So to beat the crowds and enjoy the solitude that every mountain experience should entail, start your trek under the star studded cloak of the nights sky to reach the ridgeline just before sunrise. Find a rock, park your ass, layer up and watch as the sky, peaks and lakes are touched by a kaleidoscope of colours as the fiery sun rises on the distant horizon. What a way to start a new day (and for me..my 30th Birthday!) Incredible.

6. Mt John via Lakeshore (Tekapo)

Best For: Being awestruck by Azure waters

Mt John looks like more of a hill than a mountain and certainly would be classed as one in Hymalayan terms. But standing at just 1031 meters, this rounded peak offers a pleasant 3 hour circular walk, with vast views of the azure glacial waters of Lake Teapo, the hidden waters of Lake Alexandrina and the distant snow capped peaks of the Southern Alps. Perfect for a quick stretch of the legs before hitting the road.

7. Rocky Mountain (Wanaka)

Best For: Epic Views:Effort Ratio

Climbing this peak isn’t likely to leave the seasoned hiker with a feeling of accomplishment or even exertion. But for sheer epic views-to-effort ratio, for us, this trail wins hands down.

Beginning from a car park on Aspiring Road just past Glhendu Bay (Wanaka), the trail passes Diamond Lake before gradually climbing to the Summit which boasts beautiful views down to Roys Peninsula and an entirely different perspective of the stunning Lake Wanaka. Normally I’m all about the circular walks, but if you want to get the best views this trail has to offer, plus a little exposure, we recommend taking the East Track on both legs of the journey for this one. Enjoy.

8. Mt. Alfred (Glenorchy)

Best For: Gazing out over graded rivers

At the northern end of lake Wakitupu, between two vast valleys stands a lone mountain- Mount Alfred. Offering incredible views across two graded rivers (Rees & Dart) and grandure of Aspiring National Park and the majestic Mt. Earnslaw, this took place as one of our firm favourites. Unfortunatley, access beyong the bushline to the ridge and sumit has been restricted recently, but we just couldnt exclude this one from our list!

9. Lake Marian (Lower Hollyford, near Milford)

Best for: Hanging Valleys and Majestic Lakes

This track begins with a gentle ten minute stroll along a boardwalk next to the gushing white waters of Marian Falls. The track then becomes gradually harder and evolves into more of a rough trail with some small sections of easy scrambling- making for a more interesting ascent than your typical DOC trail. After a 1.5 – 2 hours push, you’ll find yourself at the foot of the captivating Lake Marian- an Alpine lake sat in a hanging valley, sourrounded by the Darran mountains- a spot that suprisingly often you can have all to yourselves.

10. Sealy Tarns Track (Aoraki/ Mount Cook NP)

Best For: Grand Peaks, ice bergs and sprawling glaciers

Home to sprawling glaciers, permanent snow fields and 23 peaks over 3000 meteres, you might think that Mount Cook National Park would be off limits to all but the most accomplished of mountaineers. But luckily, the creation of a number of trails in and around the Tasman and Hooker Valleys offer mere mortals, like me, a glimpse into a majestic and otherwise inhospitable landscape that is Aoraki. After much deliberation, we’ve decided that our favourite of all the trails, is the Sealy Tarns track. A 1-2.5 hour vertical slog up a never ending stream of steep steps will see you at a picturesque Tarn, overlooking arguabley some of the most stunning Mountain Scenary New Zealand has to offer. Continuing onwards and upwards for another 1-2 hours, you’ll reach the perfectly located Mueller Hut- a great option if your looking for an epic overnight Alpine experience.

DON’T BE THAT GUY

As most people know, mountains may look beautiful but they can also be the most hostile of environments. Mountain weather can be changeable and when the those skies change for the worst, well trodden and popular trails have presented difficulty for even the most accomplished of hikers. During my time in New Zealand we’ve heard of too many cases of trampers winding up in life threatening situations or unfortunatly loosing their lives to the Mountains.
So Before setting out on any of the trails mentioned above, be sure to check that YOUR SKILLS and FITNESS meet the demands of the walk. ALWAYS pack accordingly. ALWAYS check the weather is suitable for the adventure. ALWAYS register your intentions with someone; and ALWAYS check the trail conditons. Many of the trails mentioned above are littered with avalanche pathways in Winter and Spring time and their terrain can become tretcherous, making them unsuitable for all but the most experienced of Mountaineers. Don’t be that guy. A cool ass photo simply isn’t worth your life.

Oh and remember… “Take only photos, leave only footprints“. New Zealand landscapes are incerdible. Lets keep it that way! 🙂

A backpacker’s guide to crossing ‘An Encounter with a Kiwi’ off that ever growing bucket list

November 11, 2016November 11, 2016 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / Leave a comment

New Zealand is known as the land of the Kiwi’s. There’s the green or golden fruity kind. The gumboot wearing, pie eating human kind. And then of course there’s every New Zealanders favourite- the long beaked, feathery flightless kind- The elusive Kiwi Bird.

But despite being New Zealand’s National Icon, this Kiwi in particular proves a little more difficult to stumble across than your average tatty old pigeon down your local high street. So difficult in fact, that our quest to spot a Kiwi saw us travel to two different islands; trek over 40kms; scour tracks by day and deserted forests and backcountry lanes by night (sorry mum); sleep in rat infested camps; be devoured by swarms of blood hungry sand-flies; and even get chased off trail and into the thick bush by a ferocious sea-lion ready to rip us limb from limb. And was the pain, sleep deprivation, and blood loss all worth it you ask? Well for five minutes of solitude with a Kiwi in the wild, it most definitely was!

So if like us, you’re a nature whore, who’s trip to NZ just wouldn’t be the same without setting your beady little eyes on one of these big booty’d birds foraging in its natural fern filled habitat, check out these tips for spotting a Kiwi out in the wild without the expense and crowds of an organised tour.

Where to begin

Some wise guy once said it’s all about ‘location, location, location’ and when it comes to finding the Kiwi Bird it most definitely is (unless you have the luck of a Leprechaun that is!). Now endangered, these little balls of wonder can only be found in just a few remote, heavily forested locations around New Zealand. And not only are they rare and difficult to find, but they are also nocturnal, presenting another issue for the diurnal human who enjoys that beautiful thing called sleep! But strangely enough, there just so happens to be one anomaly amongst the Kiwi family and that is the Rakiura Tokoeka (Southern Brown) Kiwi bird. Unlike its other Kiwi relatives, this particular species of Kiwi bird is known to disregard natural Kiwi behaviour and dabble in foraging during the day (perhaps one of the reasons these little guys are becoming extinct!!). These day dwellers can be found on the shores of Rakiura (or Stewart Island, as it is more commonly known). And that’s exactly where our trail lead us.

To make the 30km journey across the Foveaux Strait, you can catch a catamaran with Real Journeys, who operates a daily Ferry Service service between Bluff, a costal seaside town famed for its Oysters, and picturesque Oban, the only town on the whole island of Rakiura. Prices very month to month and peak during the main summer/ tourist season. Tickets in November will set you back $75 each way, but buying a return ticket will save you some much needed dolla. Luckily ,if you need to shift your return journey back to give you more time to find that Kiwi Bird, Real Journeys operate a 24 hr cancellation/ modification policy giving you a little more flexibility with your trip!

Stewart Island’s Kiwi Hot Spots:

Tracks and Trails

Steward Island’s 1746 km² of pristine wilderness is dissected by a number of remote, long distance tracks and trails that are prime Kiwi territory, but unless you have a lot of time and are willing to wade through chest high mud, you may want to give these trails a miss!

The most accessible of all of the trails on Stewart Island is the Rakiura Track– a 32km well maintained loop track and one of New Zealand’s ‘Great Walks’, which can be walked directly from Oban itself. On arrival, we were tipped off by a local DOC ranger that Kiwi birds are often spotted hanging around Port William Camp Site at dawn and dusk and also along the inland section of forest between Port William and North Arm hut during the day. As we were short on time, we opted to do the most picturesque section of the walk and camp overnight for optimal Kiwi viewing. Unfortunately, we lucked out on the Kiwi front this time, but I couldn’t recommend this 26km return adventure enough! This section of the trail is the most undulating section, beautifully scenic and if you don’t mind your pitch being overrun by rats and sand-flies, Port William is the perfect spot to end a days tramping, to watch the sun rise, and if you’re lucky enough, even catch the aurora on a super clear night.

Oban Township

Notorious for being shy and reclusive, a township would be the last place you’d expect to find a Kiwi, right? Well apparently, you’d be wrong to think that! Once again we lucked out in our search for the Kiwi Bird in Oban’s coastal town, but if you read any hostel’s ‘Kiwi Sightings’ log book, you’ll find report after report of backpackers and tourists bumping into Kiwi’s in and around town as the sun begins to fade. Here’s a list of the current ‘hot spots’:

Traill Park- Take the short ‘Fuchsia Walk’ from Dundee street to ‘Traill Park’. This ruby pitch is boarded by dense forest and apparently Kiwi’s can be seen scurrying around the pitch after dark.
Raroa Walk- From the far end of the Rugby pitch on ‘Traill Park’, take the ‘Raroa’ trail through a section of forest rich in Bird Life. Lots of people have claimed sightings right along this trail that will lead you to the beautiful Golden Bay.

Loop the ‘Back Road’- This is only one I’d recommend as a last resort and if you have nerves of steel. Stewart Island feels like one of the safest places on earth and probably is, but regardless of that, there’s something ridiculously creepy about roaming deserted back country lanes for an hour and a half in the middle of the night. Every rustling bush and eerie screech will have you thinking you’re walking straight into the set of a horror film when your path is lit only by the beam of your torch. But according to a local fisherman we hitched with from Horseshoe bay to Halfmoon bay, making a loop of the back end of town in the early hours of the morning will lead you straight to a local Kiwi hangout. The junction where ‘Back Road’ meets ‘Hicks Road’, and the bridges over ‘Mill Creek’ are apparently particular hot spots! Route: Main Road; Back Road; Hicks Road; Horseshoe Bay Road; back to Main Road.

Ulva Island

Despite doing lots of reading on Kiwi birds and the best places to find them, Ulva Island never hit our radar until the day before we were due to leave Stewart Island. But thankfully it did! This small predator- free, road- free, and virtually inhabitant- free island has become a sanctuary for rare and native birds such as the Kiwi, Saddleback, Yellowhead and Kaka parrot, and will leave you feeling like you’ve been transported back to Jurassic times when animals ruled the world.

Within 3 hours of being on the island, 3 out of the 4 couples we shared a boat with, left having had the Kiwi encounter they had hoped for…including us! And what a memorable encounter it was! With just 30 minutes to go before we departed the island, it looked like we’d be leaving NZ without even a glimpse of a Kiwi, when we were suddenly stopped in our tracks by a sea of parting ferns. Then to our absolute astonishment, in the board light of day, out pops a long protruding beak followed by a tiny head and a massive ball of a body! A kiwi bird at last! Scared that we would frighten her off, we froze to the spot and watched on as she thoughtfully strutted between us both and even got close enough to sniff Danielle’s brightly coloured shoes! Another epic and unforgettable fairy-tale moment in our travels around the world.

So before going trekking through forests with heavily laden bags; and wandering the back streets in the dead of night, fork out $20 for a return ticket to Ulva Island with Ulva Island Ferry , and even if you don’t spot a Kiwi, you really won’t regret visiting this beautiful place!

To give yourself the best chance of spotting the Kiwi and truly experience all of the flora and fauna that Ulva island has to offer, we’d defiantly recommend a full day trip. Take a picnic, relax and enjoy. And remember, leave only foot prints and take only memories. This is an amazing sanctuary- lets keep it that way.

The ferry departs Golden Bay Wharf (Stewart Island) prompt at 9am; 12pm; and 4pm* and returns from Post Office Wharf (Ulva Island) at 12pm; 4pm and 6pm* Monday-Saturday. No ferry service currently operate on a Sunday and take CASH ONLY payments. (*Summertime)

Top tip: Move slowly along the trail. Listen for rustles and be patient! Stand still for a little while and let the birds come to you. Once you see them fluttering around, kick up a bit of mulch and you’ll soon have Robins eating at your feet.

Stewart Island Top Tips

When to visit: Spring is one of the best times to visit the island. Bird watching is best at this time particularly for spotting chicks. There’s still a chance of an Aurora; crowds are fewer so accommodation and dining out is easier to wing; plus the weather is a little warmer than the cold winter months.

Where to stay: We can’t recommend Stewart Island Backpackers enough! This place has tent sites, dorm beds and private rooms; clean and ample hostel facilities and the staff are super friendly and helpful. They operate a cash back service meaning you can avoid nasty ATM fees and they are flexible with checking out time for tent pitches, meaning you can take your time and even leave your gear behind while you explore the island a little more.

Where to eat: There’s not too much in the way of food on the island. There is however a small Four Square Supermarket for all your basics. Expect to pay a little more than your average shop over here! There are also a couple of café’s; a Fish & Chip shop; and a pub called South Sea Hotel – We’d highly recommend the Fish and Chips here. The cod tasted as though it had jumped straight out of the sea and the batter and chips were to die for!

Banks: There are no banks on the island and only 2 ATM’s which you have to pay a fee to use- so stock up on any cash you might need before making the journey across the Foveaux strait!

Queenstowns Hidden Gem

October 27, 2016November 11, 2016 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / 2 Comments

Just visible from the pebbled shores of Kinloch, at the northern end of Lake Wakitupu, lies a cluster of small islands. The oddly named Pig and Pigeon Islands are lost amongst the vast volume of water that makes up New Zealands longest lake, but these specs in an obis of blue comprise of more than 170 hectres of mostly untamed land.

Cut off from predators, the Islands have grown into a natural haven showcaseing some of New Zealand’s unique native flora and fauna. And thanks to New Zealand Department of Conservation, rough trails have been formed allowing the opportunity to explore all that the islands have to offer without being ripped to shreads during the dreaded backcountry pasttime of bush bashing.

But despite its beauty and tranquillity, it is a place rarely visited by tourists. And the reason? Well, although these islands lie just a stones throw from the tourist metropolis of Queenstown and run alongside one of New Zealand’s most scenic drives- ‘The Glenorchy road to Paradise’ – these lumps of land protruding from the waters of Lake Wakitupu are only accessible by boat. And with no companies operating commercial trips June through to september, Wakitipus little known Gem, is inaccessible to all but the most inquisitive and determined of travellers during the winter months… Which to us made it all the more appealing.

And so a plan was hatched. We would arrange a day off from wwoofing at the picturesque Kinloch Lodge; get our hands on some Kayaks; paddle an unknown distance across open water; hit the shores of Pigeon Island; make a quick recky of the island; and head back home just in time for some delicious Kinloch Kai.

Unfortunately, in our eagerness for adventure, what we hadn’t accounted for was the southerly that was due to sweep in and smash Otago and Southland. Awakening the next morning we were greeted to a full blown storm which had transferred a usually picturesque lake into what resembled a ferocious sea.

Foolishly determined, Chris and I geared up and headed out to the boat shed at dawn as planned, Danielle reluctantly in tow. Stood in the lashing rain with a backdrop of rolling waves, Chris and I began our attempts to convince Danielle (and ourselves) that no, maybe the conditions weren’t exactly ‘perfect’. Maybe the water was a ‘little’ more choppy than we had hoped for.. and the winds a ‘little’ higher than what might be desirable for a 4 -5 hour deep water crossing… but it was “still totally do-able”. Un-phased by our wilful attempts to convince her otherwise, Danielle (who’d spent the best part of ten years of her life lifeguarding pools) took one look at the lake and then at us as and with a face of disbelief, turned around and quick marched back to Kinloch, point blank refusing to go anywhere near the water “on a day like today”. A decision which, as much as I hate to admit it…probably saved our lives.

Defeated by our commitment to make the crossing as a trio, Chris and I sluggishly followed Danielle back to the lodge where we took our usual spaces next to the roaring log fire. The rest of the day was spent staring longingly out of the steamy windows at the onslaught of rain which had washed away our plans of adventure.

High winds and heavy rain raged on through the day and into the night and our chances of pushing on with our little escapade the following day seemed to be slipping further and further away. But with a new dawn came a new day… and what a day it was!! Brilliant blue skies. Not a cloud in sight. And not a hint of wind. It was on.

Psyched, we grabbed our gear (which for Danielle, included her beloved mini hot water bottle) and raced to the boat shed. In super quick time we dragged out the kayaks, suited up and pushed off from the graveled shoreline.

Mindful of the of Jet boats which usually tear into the bay from the graded shallows of the Dart River, our early morning journey across into the centre of Lake Wakitupu was a blissfully cautious one. It would take just two and a half hours for us to make the crossing and hit land, but it turns out that when you continuously use the body’s smallest muscle group to propel you through water for 150 minutes, kayaking can turn into a pretty painful affair! Luckily the serenity and awe- inspiring beauty of our sourroundings offered momentary distractions from the agony of lactic acid swimming around our shoulders.

After dragging our Kayaks ashore, we took advantage of a quick refuelling opportunity accompanied by a couple of inquizative Weka’s, before setting off through thick bush in search of a trail. Without much effort at all, we stumbled across a well-trodden but a little over grown trail which took us around the circumstance of the island and up to its summit in little over two and a half hours.

The island itself was alive with the sound of song birds and from the highest point, offered stunning 360 degree views of the valleys and mountain ranges surrounding New Zealand’s longest lake. But the sweetest thing of all was that we seemed to be the only ones there to enjoy it. An island all to ourselves.

But for Chris who was struggling with a knee injury and Danielle who was having to face her irrational fear of trees and (I quote) “green nature”, the end of the trek couldn’t have come any sooner!

Back in our Kayaks there seemed to be an unspoken determination in the air. Eager to avoid the plummeting temperatures of the winter nights and the ever changing conditions of an unpredictable lake, we paddled hard, racing the sun as it began to sink behind the white washed peaks of the Humboldt range.

But it wasn’t long before my sense of urgency was lost in the picture perfect scene before me. Resting my paddle across my soggy legs, my kayak eventually slowed to a stop. Sat completely alone, I watched as the peaks around me turned from a glistening white to a fiery alpine orange. Their reflections cast like a mirror image across the eerily still waters of the lake. It was one of those rare moments in life that makes you take a deep breath and realise how incredible the world really can be.

As the day faded away into darkness we arrived back into Kinloch’s harbour. The lodges twinkiling lights and billowing chimney couldn’t have been a more welcomed sight on what was now an icy cold winters night. Slowly clambering from the kayaks, our hands frozen to the touch and our bodies shaking from the inside out, we briefly celebrated our sub 2 hour return paddle victory, before racing inside in search of a burning fire and that much needed Kai.

Another epic day in New Zealand.

*If your thinking of creating your own Wakitupu adventure, stay at the beautiful Kinloch Lodge and YHA. Make use of their Bike and Kayak hire and spend your evening enjoying the food available in their delicious restaurant before relaxing with a glass of your favourite red in the hot tub under a starry sky. For guided tours on Wakatipu check out Kinloch Lodge or for a guided tour to Pigeon Island, we are informed a company called Rippled Earth operate commercial tours October through to May.

http://www.kinlochlodge.co.nz

*Please note….This information is correct to our knowledge at the time of publication 🙂

Milford or Doubtful Sound… Backpacking dilemmas in the land of the Long White Cloud

September 8, 2016September 15, 2016 / Backpacks Boots & Wanderlust / 5 Comments

A trip to the popular Milford or Doubtful Sound usually ranks high on the bucket list of most backpackers travelling around the Land of the Long White Cloud. But with dozens of companies operating year round commercial cruises in two differing “Sounds”, it’s difficult to know which to visit, at what time of the year and how best to experience one of New Zealand’s most acclaimed natural attractions.

So, as we’ve somehow wound up having Fiordland National Park as our back garden, we’ve been lucky enough to try out most cruise and kayak trips available in this beautiful part of the world and decided to put together some tips to help you get the most out of your time here.

So, which Sound??

Two of the most common questions we’ve been asked since working in Te Anau have been: ‘What’s the difference between Milford and Doubtful Sound?’ and ‘ Which one is better?’

And the truth is… there’s no easy answer.

Labelled Sounds by early explorers, Milford and Doubtful are both in fact Fjords (or Fiords) and are just two out of a total of 14 fjords that indent the 215km of Fiordland World Heritage Coastline. Carved out by the crushing power of ancient glaciers, both offer scenes of undeniable beauty. Towering peaks soar vertically from the dark waters below. Thunderous waterfalls cascade over rocky outcrops. Forests of ferns and Beech trees cling precariously to sheer rock faces. And rarely seen sea life can be spotted taking haven from the turbulent Tasman sea.

So in terms of the perceived environment you will be immersing yourself in, there is little difference. The most noticeable differences between Milford and Doubtful Sound instead lie in their size, price tag and the feeling of wilderness and isolation that they project.

Milford Sound is arguably one of New Zealand’s biggest tourist destinations and it’s easy to see why. This narrow fjord will leave you feeling insignificant beneath its soaring summits and in awe of the majestic Mitre Peak.

And arguably as beautiful as Milford itself is the journey to get there. Milford can be reached via state Highway 94, just a 2 hour drive from Te Anau- making this easily the most accessible Fjord in Fiordland National Park. This historic road skirts Lake Te Anau, New Zealand’s 2^nd largest lake, before following the Eglinton River through dramatic valley flats. From here the road winds and climbs to a staggering 945meters through the Darran Mountains before climaxing at the infamous Homer Tunnel. This feat of human engineering and ingenuity carves its way 1.2 km through a wall of otherwise impassable rock, opening up a hair raising decent into the beautiful Milford Sound.

Along the way you’ll pass pristine mirror lakes; raging waterfalls; glacial rivers; sublime mountain scenery; deep rock chasms and endless vantage points offering views of the surrounding forested valleys. If you’re a keen tramper, this road also gives you access to (in our opinion) some of the best short and multi day walks that the South Island has to offer!

Top Tip: Opt for an early morning cruise. Make ‘Mirror lake’ your only stop en-route to Milford and then after your cruise, spend the rest of your day exploring this beautiful road and all it has to offer on your way back to Te Anau. This itinerary does mean a fairly early start, but dragging yourself out of bed that little bit earlier will help you get the most out of your trip to Milford, and with generally lower winds and calmer weather patterns early morning, you’re more likely to get those picture perfect views.

Doubtful Sound is a fjord of epic proportions. Stretching its crooked arms outward from the dense forests of Fiordland to the turbulent waters of the Tasman Sea, Doubtful Sound is around three times the length and ten times the area of Milford Sound.

Cut off from public road access, the only way to reach the shores of Deep Cove and embark on a cruise or kayak adventure in Doubtful, is to first take a 60 minute boat ride across the beautiful Lake Manapouri before boarding a coach and travelling up and over Wilmot Pass. This mountain pass is notorious for the challenges mother nature can throw at it- but the long journey is well worth the time and effort.

Doubtful offers a remote wilderness experience a world away from the busy tourist terminals and endless passing of vessels on the water ways of Milford Sound. Jurassic in appearance and ambience, it truly is a slice of serenity in an otherwise busy world.

So with all of this in mind, which Sound should you choose? Well, if money is no object then an overnighter in Doubtful, along with a day trip in Milford and a scenic over-flight of the National Park will give you the ultimate Fiordland experience. But if, like most backpackers, you’re conscious of that ever dwindling bank balance, then your more than likely going to be investing your hard earned cash into just one of these trips. Continue reading →